On tour at home and abroad with the Sumpners

The view below is Toad Rock, Tunbridge Wells


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Winter Sun Part 3 – Aranjuez to Santa Elena

Thursday 30th

Paul had a particularly long meeting this morning. Very boring for me and also for the boys. I pushed off for a shower – and please – just because I don’t mention it every time, take it as read that we do keep ourselves clean when we are on the road !! Overcast 15C

Eventually the meeting drew to its agonisingly slow close and lunch was on the menu. Time for a trip into Aranjuez – capital of the Las Vegas district of Madrid (cue song!) and a fine upstanding town in its own right. In fact, until 1752, only royalty and the nobility were allowed to dwell in the town.

We stopped at the river just by the campsite, where there is big goose and Muscovy duck enclave. I drifted off to sleep last night listening to them clanking away!

So – to Aranjuez. The Palacio Real – a stunning building – has been, for centuries, the spring residence of the royal family. It almost looks new, to be honest, built in the old style.

The Palacio Real

Another impressive feature of the town is the Plaza de San Antonio, surrounded by many arches. The large Plaza is also known as “la Mariblanca” – presumably because of the large expanse of compacted white stone that it sits on? The church of San Antonio de Padua sits at the top of the square.

Aranjuez – pronounced Arran-hweth – is also famous for its many gardens, which were built in the style of Versailles. We chose one – the Jardin del Principe – in which to take the boys for a stroll. Unfortunately, no dogs allowed. Bill immediately showed his opinion in a really quite embarrassing manner, which involved collection and a bag for that purpose. Ya git me?

He did it pretty much slap bang in the middle of these gates!

This being Spain, one of the main features of the town is the Plaza de Toros – the bull ring. I was quite curious as to how the Spanish people feel about bull-fighting these days. Research shows that it is a political hot potato and also that there is a generational split, with the older population defending it as a cultural and historic part of the Spanish way of life and the younger generation who feel that it’s time to call it a day. I’m with the youth. This statement perfectly sums it up for me ““It is the 21st century and unthinkable that a spectacle where someone mistreats and kills an animal is officially a cultural event,” said Chesús Yuste, spokesperson for the Parliamentary Association in Defense of Animals (APDDA). “The time for bullfighting has passed.” “

It was soon time for Paul to go back to work – although he had been taking calls all the time we had been out and about. So I and the boys made ourselves comfy, them for a snooze and me to blog. And so we continued until around 7:15.

We had popped in to the on-site restaurant to enquire about a meal earlier and they were happy to serve us outside with the boys, so dinner out tonight.

It was as all a bit of a palaver as they (bless them!) insisted on setting up a table especially for us. We ordered drinks and then the menu arrived. Oddly, we both fancied the same thing. I doubt it’s very traditional Spanish – although they can’t possibly eat Paella every day, surely? It was Chorizo, bacon, egg, and chips! And it was bloody lovely! Served with an excellent mixed salad. Top grub!

One for the tourist trade I suspect?

Friday 31st

A day I hoped would never come. The day we leave the EU. I have friends who are very pro leaving and I have friends that are very anti leaving and I’m glad we have found a way not to let Brexit affect our friendships. But – for me – today is a very sad day.  I hope those that are glad enjoy their celebrations and allow those of us who did not want to leave to be sad without rubbing our noses in it. Que sera sera. 

Our lunchtime visit today was  the town of Chinchōn – pronounced “Cheenchon“. Chinchon is famous for its Plaza Mayor, surrounded by buildings with wooden balconies. As we edged our way through the narrow twisty streets of this hilltop town, we hoped it would be worth it. And indeed it was. There are bars and restaurants all round the circular plaza and they looked very tempting. We parked next to another guy in the centre of the “square” and all seemed fine and then suddenly, out popped a policeman, with his pad. We apologised in English and he let us off. No parking there. Phew. I managed to bash off a couple of pics though. 

That zealous policeman!

As we were leaving we saw a sign for the Laguna de Don Juan. I quickly looked it up and it seemed like the perfect place to give the boys a good run off lead. 

We turned off the main road, following the sign posts, onto a dodgy looking track – full of potholes. Progress was slow but we eventually arrived at the viewing point. I guess you could say it was much like Farlington marsh? 

The first thing we saw was a couple of those big raptors – not sure which kind, but big. And impossible to photograph. How do those BBC guys do it?Wait for hours I guess.

The boys had a really nice game of chase and we took a few photos and then popped them, panting and watered,  back in the car for the journey home to the campsite.

We took a quick detour on the way home, lured by the price of gazoile. At just under a pound for a litre, it was the cheapest we’d yet seen. 

When we arrived back at the site, it was evident that more people had arrived – presumably for the weekend?  But we had a lovely solitary spot with loads of vacant pitches all around us. Until now. Loads of empty spots and what had happened? Someone had sited themselves immediately next door.  Why do people do that? 

Empty pitch after empty pitch
Could they BE any closer?

Paul returned to his work while I did a bit of tidying up in preparation for the off tomorrow morning. 

Then it was the weekend!!! No more work for a couple of days – although in reality I sure there will be some.  In celebration we decide to take the boys out on the bikes. We had spotted an area we could cycle to and then let them off the lead to cycle alongside us. 

Starting off was a bit iffy. What with Bill breaking his leg and preparations for the move, we had pretty much not managed to do any cycling with them since they were very small in the lovely Forest of  Dean.  But they eventually got it and we rode happily to the spot where we felt it would be OK to let them off. They loved it! Haring up and down and chasing and fighting. You could see the joy on their faces – and probably on ours too. Lets hope this is the first of many?

The evening brought supper and stowing stuff in their proper places and a bit of telly too. We have started re-watching Sharpe, which we are thoroughly enjoying and are just plunging in to The Stranger, a new Netflix series. Pastures new and an earlyish start await us tomorrow. Outside the EU……….

Sat 1st Feb

Since our next destination was a relatively short  drive, we set off a little later than usual at about 08:40. Our route to the motorway took us straight through town, which was interesting! Driving slowly along the cobbled streets round the Plaza attracted quite a queue of traffic behind us. It was overcast  and around 12C as we set off. 

Our route took us past many classic windmills and there seems to be a Quixotic flavour to the area, with lots of cartoons of the famous Don and his sidekick. 

We made our first stop at around 10:00 – just a quick coffee stop,  as the boys didn’t seem interested in rousing themselves from their slumbers.  It may be whimsical, but as you drive along, you quite often see a Spanish Bull, by the side of the road. We are not really sure why they are there, but they are quite attractive and leave you in no doubt that you are in Spain.

The A4 or Autovia del Sûr enters the Despeñaperros National Park via a series of dramatic viaducts and tunnels. We loved it – even though we were in low clouds which marred the view a little. 

Pretty soon we saw the turn off for Santa Elena, home of our campsite Camping Despenaperros – for the next three nights. In the instructions provided to help you find the campsite, it warns you that access is tricky. And by gum it is!!! Challenging for anyone except the cool-as-a-cucumber Mr Sumpner. He took it nice and slow and triumphed again. 

We checked in and were allocated our pitch, so off we went, promising to return with our passports at 1 pm. 

The pitch was pretty level but we had more fun with the flipping electricity again. It wasn’t too long though, before but we had power, thanks to the persistent and patient Sumps. 

Note that the water taps are very low to the ground, making it rather difficult to fill the water barrel. It was done more easily at the facilities block but renders null the convenience of having a tap in each pitch. 

The site is in a wood overlooking olive groves and is very quiet indeed with lots of birds to watch. We think we are going to like it here. 

I popped back with the passports at the agreed time and had a very long wait. Senor had computer troubles. Quite a queue had built up by the time we got sorted! 

We had a spot of lunch and then went out exploring. Reader – I know you will find this a little hard to comprehend, but we had not had the foresight to provision ourselves for a trip into such a wilderness! Please don’t panic or contact the Red Cross, we WILL be OK, although our meals may have an unusual composition! Not that there is anything wrong with sardines in tomato sauce and Ambrosia creamed rice? We thought we’d try and find some odds and ends at a supermarket, just in case.

I digress. As if we had not had enough of driving, we went for a drive in the park. Paul wanted to seek out the old, pre-Autopista road through the park, which we soon found and were very swiftly rewarded with some stunning views. 

We stopped at a viewpoint and climbed up to the top of the lookout to get pictures of the “Los Órganos Natural Monument”, which is  a rock shaped – they say – like a giant church organ. Wind and rain have eroded the cliffs, resulting in spectacular scenery,  with the appearance of giant vertical pipes. 

As we stood there and marvelled, a (I think it can only have been) shot rang out. All the raptors (which we think were Griffon Vultures) were actually nestling and possibly nesting in the nooks and crannies in the cliffs took flight! What an amazing sight. And they had just settled when another shot came and they were spooked again. As ever, our pics just don’t do it justice. 

Spott the Vulture – three to find!
A viaduct from below
Portals

The road we had chosen led us back – by chance I’d say – to Santa Elena and our van, where we all had a jolly nice siesta. And found the supermarket – closed.

After our siesta and a cuppa, it was ablutions all round – including a quick haircut for Mr S and then we went out in search of dinner. On the way out of town we spotted this! We think it’s a nightclub, maybe? Couldn’t resist the pic!

My fame has spread!

We dined at Restaurante Asadore Navas de Talosa in La Carolina, the next town up the valley. And very nice it was too. we had a delicious starter of some potato, onion, cheese and egg with green peppers. Yes – that’s right. Green peppers – and they were actually not bad. Those who know me well know that I abhor and detest peppers of all colours. But these hardly tasted like peppers at all! We had eaten most of it before I thought to take a pic but here are the remains!

This was followed by a pork steak in a roquefort sauce for me and a kind of chicken/ham/cheese escalope for Pablo. We ate well for around £20 per head including drinks and coffee, and then returned to the van, ready for bed.

PS – I said it was quiet – I hadn’t allowed for a house party who were playing their music VERY LOUDLY INDEED until gone midnight. It didn’t stop us falling asleep very quickly!

Miles travelled: Day 130 / Cumulative 1315


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Winter Sun Part 2 – Bordeaux to Aranjuez

Monday 27th January

Moving day. We were up and at it and tip-toeing around so as not to disturb other campers. We left the site at just gone 08:00.. Good preparation pays off!

Today we shall mostly be seeing trees, as we will be passing through the vast Forest of Landes which, at 3900 sq miles, is the largest man-made forest in Western Europe. To put it into perspective, our own New Forest is a mere 219 sq miles. It is huge!

Two hours of trees on a very straight road can be a little tedious, so we had a quiz. Each round had 7 questions and a boiled sweet was awarded each time we scored 7/7. Reader – the excitement was almost unbearable!

It was 13C and a fairly dull day. and then, just after 10:00.we got our first glimpse of the Pyrenees. More excitement. We last saw them back in 2011, when we holidayed there and saw a stage of the Tour de France.

We passed into Spain at around 10:45 and then it was time for our first stop, near San Sebastián. We immediately noticed that the Autservicios look somehow a little more tired than those in France. The roads are – so far – not as good either. Just two lanes mostly.

But the service station gave me my first challenge of the day. I can cope with just about any situation in France, but my Spanish is very limited. I ordered two coffees with milk to take away – and got them!!! Chuffed with that small victory.

We noticed that all the road signs were in Basque and all the place names too. It’s an interesting and quite mysterious language being a “language isolate” which is to say it has no roots in any other European language currently spoken. Visually, it is language with lots of x-es and zeds. I’ve never actually heard it spoken.

I’ve saved you the bother – this is a light-hearted video which illustrates just how different it is:

For the next couple of hours we drove through what I’d describe as the Spanish equivalent of Dartmoor. It started off quite scenically, with elegant bridges spanning ravines and gorges and lots of tunnels both short and long. But it soon became quite desolate plains-type country. And pretty wet and windy too. Scarily so if you’re me!! It was a bit of a white knuckle ride for me and my over-active imagination! I wondered whether we were on those plains in Spain where the rain mainly stays?

We stopped again for a leg stretch and a not very appetising roll at about 13:45 and then arrived at our destination – Camping Fuentes Blancos – in Burgos.

This is probably the most open of the “open all year” sites we have encountered, with a chap clearly on duty in reception, a shop and even a little restaurant. Quite a few units arrived after us.

Burgos is the ancient capital of Castile and the site is located on the banks of the River Arlanza – although sadly you can’t see it from the site.

We had arrived about 3pm and it was all a bit muddy. The pitches were on grass so we drove round for a while until we found a spot to our liking. The site looks much like a campsite in Winter, really, despite all the itinerants like us!

Our muddy pitch in Burgos

Before we finally pitched, Paul used his home-made European test-lead.

We had a choice of four electric connectors and the first one lit up two lights – meaning it wasn’t earthed. That’s apparently A BAD THING and potentially dangerous – normally the earth is there to protect electrical stuff. Or something ….

Anyway – no harm done, the next he tried was fine. We soon had the van warm and cosy and Paul was very quickly working away while I wrote most of this. Dinner was Spaggy Bog left over from yesterday. Paul worked all evening while I watched some telly.

We are sited next to a couple of tents. Rather them than me in this weather! Clearly they couldn’t sleep as – while we were dozing off that night – they were talking very loudly and animatedly. I woke up at 12:30 and they we’re still at it. I made a mental note to learn the Spanish for “please be quiet” – or similar. I must ask my friend Begoña for an apt colloquial phrase! Buenas noches a todos.

Miles travelled: Day 270 / Cumulative 1005

Tuesday 28th

Another rest day – another lie in. For some. Well – one. Yes! Me!! It was me!! Paul, bless him, got up very quietly and got his nose to the grindstone straight away while I slumbered. I eventually arose and had breakfast. Suitably restored, I managed a little light blogging.

Eventually, Paul having worked for a good five hours , broke off for an extended lunch break. We drove into Burgos with the express intention of a visit to Burgos Cathedral – especially as it has a UNESCO World Heritage status.

The avenue leading to the Cathedral

Immediately we clapped eyes on it we could see why. I had looked on line and thought it looked big but – in real life – it is pretty amazing. Building commeneced in 1221, following the French Gothic style. We couldn’t go inside because of our canine encumbrance (we wouldn’t be without them!) so walked round the perimeter. The Cathedral’s full name is long and richly deserved. It is the Santa Iglesia Catedral Basílica Metropolitana de Santa María de Burgos. Oh yes.

The approach to the Catheral
The Cathedral in all its glory

We saw our old friend the pélérin (pilgrim) again or – as we are in Spain, the peregrino. We would be parting company with him from today as his next stop is León to the West and we are heading South tomorrow.

Il peregrino

There was an accordion player in one of the Archways – playing Jingle Bells! I suppose it’s actually about a sleigh ride and yet – in our culture – inextricably linked with Christmas, so seemed a bit out of place.

We drove up to the top of the hill, where there was a viewpoint. I had a chat with DIL2B while Paul walked the boys and then we stopped at the viewpoint for a pretty good overview of the town.

We popped into our Mercadona supermarket (or rather I did) to get some fresh bread and some fruit for another late lunch and then back to the van, where Paul went back to work and I prepared lunch.

He worked on until around 8 and then we both agreed we were still too full for supper so he had cheese and biscuits and I had a banarnie sarnie. Haven’t had one for years and just fancied it. It was yummers.

We watched the end of the movie we had started a couple of (k)nights ago. The King – the story of Henry Vs ascent to the throne and Agincourt. Very realistic (one imagines) battle scene. Accounts of the battle say the five thousand longbowmen, each loosing fifteen arrows a minute, let fly a total of seventy five thousand arrows in one minute: an arrow storm that was said to have blocked out the light of the sun. It was a pretty good movie.

As we had driven in to town yesterday, we had admired the streetlights, which look like they are encased within some sort of transparent gloop. Very attractive we thought.

My quick review of the site. is that we probably did not see it at its best but it’s a useful stopping point. The facilities are good (seats and loo-roll) They are very clean and warm, too. There is a handy shop for basics but also big Mercadona in town. We did not try the restaurant as it was not dog friendly. In normal circumstances we’d probably be happy to leave them in their crates in the car, so that we could dine without them, but because they are spending quite a lot of time in them as we travel, it just does not seem fair to bung them in there, just for our convenience.

29th Jan

Heading South today. We were off just after 8 – as usual. It was grey and overcast and 8C as we left Burgos.

The Spanish interior is big, red and scrubby. Not sure it’s quite what we expected? I kept thinking about how Sharpe and his men would have found it. Especially in summer. I imagine it’s baking hot, with very little shade or cover.

A random town along the route
Our Spanish go-faster stripes

As we drove along, some guy overtook us, waving at us and flashing his lights at us. We’ve heard horror stories of people pulling over and then getting robbed, so we drove on. You can see how people get caught out. It does feel a bit weird ignoring it, but was probably just that he was happy to see us because we are English!Might be a different story on Friday?

We pulled off for 2nd breakfast just before 10, near Milagro. Paul checked the van over (nothing untoward) and walked the boys while I went to fetch the refreshments. I’ve noticed already how much cheaper it is than in France.

We saw a couple of big birds of prey. One flew right over us, talons out. Really impressive. I though Golden Eagle but Paul thought Condor. We’ll never know – but either is possible round these parts.

As we continued our journey further South, we glimpsed some snow on some of the mountain tops. Happy to see it but happier still not to be in it!! Although one hears that the Spanish have it sorted and soon have the snow-ploughs out. We spotted a couple of areas where they shepherd you off the motorway if snow strikes.

It was as at his point that we experienced what we now call “a Gabby Garmin detour”. We were cruising happily along the road when she told us to leave at the next exit. Taken by surprise we obeyed, although I was quickly checking with our other navigation system, Via Michelin, which allows you to specify that you are towing.

Gabby was playing tricks, as she often does. She gets you off a main road, onto a lesser road and then – a little further on – returns you to the same road you were hitherto travelling. For no apparent reason!

This detour was along a quite twisty minor road with a narrow bridge. Luckily, no-one else was around and we were soon back on the Autopista. Fortunately, Micky Michelin saved us going down what was little more than a track by suggesting a different route to that which Gabby had suggested – although we would definitely have balked at taking it. See pics below!

Gabby’s suggested route
The reality on the ground

Very soon, we were on the outskirts of Madrid and the traffic started hotting up. I am such a wuss. And I read and retain too much. I’d read a few articles about how crazy it was (although surely nothing could be worse than Palermo!). My heart was in my mouth as we journeyed through the city. The Motorway plunges straight through the heart of Madrid and it’s pretty confusing. And it seems that white van man (or le hombre de la furgoneta blanca!) also lives in Spain! But good old Paul! He is such a trooper. Cool, calm and collected, he powered through – although we did have both navigation systems running in tandem, just in case Gabby started any of her monkey business!

Pretty soon we were seeing signs for Aranjuez and then for our stopover for the next three nights – Camping International of Aranjuez. It was brighter, with hints of blue sky as we pitched up and the temperature was in the mid to high teens. Lovely. It’s the first time since we came away that we haven’t had the heating on, although it’ll probably go on tonight.

Our pitch
More of the site

We needed some chicken so we popped to Mercadona and got a bit lost in what looked like a failed commercial centre project of some sort. Lots of half-built and abandoned buildings, complete with massive car park, all laid out but overgrown and cordoned off. There was a large hotel, which did seem to be open and and a large Casino again open, but half the lights on the frontage out. It all looked very sad indeed – presumably a victim of the big Spanish Depression? It looked about the right age.

Hi from our well travelled boys! Ted L and Bill R

Miles travelled: Day 180 / Cumulative 1185


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Winter Sun Part 1 – Fareham to Bordeaux

Weds 22nd January

Today was the day for the start of our pretty epic (to us!!) road-trip. We had prepared as much as we could the evening before and we spent an hour or so prepping the van so that we could just hook-up and go.

Next was a visit to the flat to shower (both) , do some work (Paul) and collect the last few bits (me) before the off.

Paul then left for Portchester to go and grab the bikes while I popped to Soothills to get some lunch. Our bikes have been stored at the lovely Linda’s since the move. It was when I arrived, bearing pasties all round that we realised that we had forgotten the vital bike keys, which lock the bikes to the car roof. They were nestling happily in a drawer in the sideboard. Doh!

We quickly hatched a plan. Linda would come with me to the flat to collect the keys while Paul would go back to the site and start the hook-up process. Linda would then drive my beloved Jizzy back to her house. Jizzy is being cared for by Linda and Anna while we are away, so this all worked out very well.

We eventually set off at 2:30 – about an hour later than planned but that’s my life, as those who know my husband will attest.

I had hoped we would arrive before dark but that was out of the window. Traffic on the M25 linear car park was pretty abysmal and we finally rocked up at our first night stop – 1 – The Drum Inn – which is situated roughly 8 minutes from the Tunnel and a favourite spot of ours when visiting France with dogs. They were very good, dropping off to sleep just after we left and staying that way until we arrived. Paul drove and answered the phone and dictated responses to emails all the way.

We were the only people on this very handy pub site, so we got a nice spot where we could stay hooked up and leave (very) early and with minimum fuss the next morning. We got some drinks from the pub and had our dinner. Paul went back to work, while I watched a spot of television and we ere in bed by 10:15, ready for our early alarm call. We set double alarms- just in case.

Miles travelled: Day 125/ Cumulative 125

Thursday 23rd

The alarm went off at 04:45. We arose and Paul walked the boys while I made some coffee. Last night I had prepared some cereal in lidded bowls that we would eat while we were in the tunnel. The boys seemed very puzzled that we were waking them up so early!

We were booked on the 6:50 train but managed to get on the 06:20. We boarded the train at 06:00 and proceeded to have our “first breakfast”. Then it was putting the beam deflectors on the headlights, applying the Crit’air sticker and then the Télépéage gizmo on the windscreen.

The dogs didn’t bat an eyelid in the tunnel. I doubt they even noticed. They had Bonios for their first breakfast.

The obligatory “approaching the train” shot
The obligatory “on the train” shot

We arrived in France at around 07:00 or 08:00 French time. It was a nice sunrise, about 7C and a tad cloudy. Our first stop – as usual – was at the Aire du Baie du Somme, where coffee and 2nd brekker (a pain au choc) was procured. At a Starbucks! Zut alors! Is nothing sacred? V disappointing that France has finally succumbed to the big boys from Seattle.

Next stop was just a petrol stop, near Rouen – the location of my very first trip to France with Uncle D when I was about 11. We caught the ferry overnight to Le Havre and then a train to Rouen. I remember being entranced by everything and am still grateful to him for opening my eyes to the joys of travel. We also have fond memories of a visit to the town with our dear friends Sue & Paul Rogers – particularly our hilarious trip on a very squeaky land train – with French only commentary and a lady with a new phone who was trying out every ringtone. We were convulsed for most of the very memorable (for all the wrong reasons!) trip.

The temperature was now down to 0c and it was quite foggy between Rouen and Alençon, but it warmed up during the afternoon and and we actually saw some sunshine.

The long and not very winding road!

Once again we drove and responded to calls and emails and this, coupled with stops every couple of hours or so, helped the long journey pass reasonably tolerably.

We eventually arrived at our site – Camping les Acacias – in Tours at 16:15. It had been a long day and was not the most welcoming arrival – no-one in reception and – as is customary – no instructions or envelope with our name on telling us where to pitch. I know it is winter, but if you are going to say that you are open all year but it’s not economical to staff the place, at least leave some sort of welcoming envelope? I don’t think that’s an unreasonable demand.

We had been warned of possible electrical problems by another English guy who had arrived before us. He was quite correct- the first four connections we tried kept cutting out as soon as we put the fridge and heating on. It was barely above freezing and getting quite dark and – as I sat in the van in coat, scarf and blanket – I had visions of a very miserable couple of nights.

Good old Paul tried everything but his patience was sorely tried by the dodgy supply. Eventually, he tried a different approach and finally, we had power! First priority was heating and, once the van had defrosted (OK – slight exaggeration!) we added in the fridge and then lights and soon everything else was able to be used with no tripping. I love my electric over-blanket!

Paul settled down and did some more work, we popped out for a quick squizz of Tours by night and a Maccy D (Bacon and Blue Cheeses!). We spotted nearby a Supermarket and, better still, a petrol station with cheap fuel. Then more work for Paul and eventually bed. It really had been a very long day.

Our pitch at Les Acacias

Miles travelled: Day 380/ Cumulative 505

SERVICE STATION REPORT 5 loos visited, of which only 2 had toilet seats. Grim!

Friday 24th

Paul was up and working by 08:00. I – aka Mrs Lazybones – slept in until 10:30!

I awoke to a bright sunny day, with a temperature of about 10C. That’s better!! Very springy. Paul worked until 14:00 and then we set out to have a quick look round Tours and a drive along by the beautiful River Seine.

And our impression? Very elegant, lots of fin de siecle buildings in wide tree-lined boulevardes. The Cathedral (de Saint-Gatien of Tours) is wonderfully intricate. The location by the Loire is perfect. The Grand Theatre has seen better days, though it’s still shabby chic and the Chateau is not as impressive as the Hôtel de Ville. We liked Tours very much.

Tours from the Loire
Cathedral de Saint-Gatien 
The Grand Théâtre
Le Chateau du Tours

After our whistle-stop tour of Tours we returned to the van and Paul did some more work. When he finally declared himself done for the weekend,we made a quick visit to E Leclerc for some food for supper (Tuna Lasagne) and some cheap gazoile – €0.30 per litre cheaper. Makes a big difference!

So a quick review of Les Acacias – maybe I’m expecting too much out of season, but I would have hoped for a better arrival. The site is pretty close to Tours and would be a good base for the Loire Valley and its delights. It’s also just off the A10 and very near a large supermarket (E Leclerc). The shower block was clean and warm and the washing up facilities very handy. When we are travelling like this, we tend to do a “light” set-up, rather than the “full monty”. By which I mean we pop a bucket out to collect waste water and use a 5 litre water bottle for our drinking water. We then rely on the site’s facilities for loo, ablutions and washing up.

I’d gladly stay at Les Acacias again but those electrics do need looking at as I write this (Jan 2020) – avoid the 4 way pole at the bottom left – or at least check before you pitch.

Sat 25th

We got up immediately the alarm went off at 7:45. Paul took the boys out while I got breakfast ready. After packing everything up and unhooking, we set off just after 9. It was a lovely sunny day but only 0 degrees as we set off. We were to spend most of the day on the A10, which is a toll road.

Just a short note here about toll roads. They are our preferred method of transit. Many people make it a point of honour to avoid them. For us the benefits are pretty simple. Excellent road surface, frequent stops either with or without all mod cons. We have a tag and just drive straight through the péage. This is less of an issue in winter, admittedly, but in summer you beat the queues. And it’s nice to hear that satisfying beep! This all comes at a price, but we feel it is worth the hit to travel stress free.

Our first stop was just South of Poitiers. We caught a glimpse of the Futuroscope theme park from the road. As we drove further South the temperatures rose steadily and it was 11C by midday.

The next stop was at a really pleasant Aire just South of Saintes (a city I’d like to visit one day). There was even a climbing wall, high tree walks and a zip wire in the wooded bit, although it’s of course seasonal. The French do their rest stops or aires very well.

We notice that we seem to have the caravan area pretty much to ourselves. Somebody not telling us something? By now it was 16C and really very pleasant. People were sitting out in the sun having their lunch.

After our break, we pressed on and were soon approaching the outskirts of Bordeaux and its “rocade” or ring road, which is notorious in the same way as the M25. It was pretty busy today even though it was Saturday. Paul is so calm and collected. I’d be a wreck!!

We arrived at Camping Beausoleil in Gradignan, just south of Bordeaux at 15:15, to a friendly welcome from Madame, who also took time to show us how to get to Bordeaux by public transport.

Saint Pierre – Gradignan Church

We have a pitch right next to the shower block – handy for a quick nip across when it’s nippy out. We got set up, had a cuppa and did a bit of screen staring.

We needed some grub for a couple of night’s meals so Paul dropped me at the shop while he went and walked the boys. While he was out he visited the Priory of Cayac – one of the stops on the pilgrim’s route to Santiago to Compostela.

The Priory
Un Pèlerin
The scallop shell – symbol of the Santiago pilgrim

On our return, we cooked, watched half a Netflix movie (King) and retired to our comfy bed.

Miles travelled: Day 230/ Cumulative 735

SERVICE STATION REPORT 1 toilet visited – with seat

Sunday 26th

After a really peaceful night, we had a fairly lazy start, kind of easy- much like a Sunday morning.

There had been a little rain overnight and we took the opportunity of dry daylight weather to get the “long vehicle” boards stuck on the back of the van. Spanish road regulations dictate that any vehicle over 12 metres in length must bear these attractive accessories. This includes vehicles whose combined length when towing is over that length. Unluckily for us, our rig is 12.2m. We did discuss risking it, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. Don’t want any bother with Spanish road cops!

Chores done, we set with hopeful hearts to find the bus stop. Mission accomplished- and we had very helpful driver, who explained to us the intricacies of the Bus/tram system and sold us two tickets – allée et retour. Two people for an hour each way for €6. Bargain!

We set off, keeping our eyes open for the stop – Peixotto – where the bus interfaces with the tram. Mission accomplished. Doing well! Odd name you might say? It’s very Basque – we are very nearly in Basque Country and it’s influences show.

The tram was packed and a bit hot but the boys – once again – were perfectly happy. We clocked the places we wanted to see on the way back and soon arrived at the planned stop – the Cité du Vin. Once off the tram we strolled along by the river. We were very impressed by the bridge crossing the large, fast-flowing and very muddy R Garonne. Even more so, when we researched it later and found that it is a vertical lift-bridge, first opened in 2013. See the pics below.

We were lucky enough to find a a cafe/bar – l’Austra – who were happy to take us and the boys . The waiter spoke great English and we had soon ordered our tapas. Mozzarella Sticks, Ham & Cheese Croquettes, Chicken Balls stuffed with sweet chilli jam and some Pate with Cornichons. All delish and way too much!

The Cite du Vin Building
Pont Jacques Chaban Dalmas closed
And open!

Lunch finished we re-boarded the tram (B line) back to the bus stop for the Gradignan line (No. 10), passing the massive Place des Quinconces – one of the largest city squares in Europe  – and stopping at another impressive cathedral, the beautiful Saint-Andre, with its separate campanile Very interesting history) , and taking photos. We had a video call with Uncle D while we were there!

Place des Quinconces
Cathedral of Saint-Andre
Pey Berland Bell Tower
Notre-Dame d’Aquitaine
Paul with his camera out

We arrived back at Peixotto where we had, earlier, checked out visually where the return tram would be. Luckily we only had to wait a couple of minutes for a number 10 to come along. Result! UNluckily, he drove straight past. We were speechless! He made absolutely no attempt to stop. We looked around and saw a stuck on sign saying that this stop was temporarily out of order and that we had to walk back to where we had got off the tram. Grr.

We used the opportunity to grab a quick cafe á emporter and sat to wait for the next bus. It came along quicker than we had anticipated. Hurrah!!

Bill and I had one foot on the bus when the doors started to shut. I quickly got back off and the bus drove away, leaving us standing like numpties AGAIN!! Reader – a few sharp words ensued.

We sat back to wait for the next bus, a tad disgruntled. Once again it turned up promptly. There was NO WAY we were going to let this one go without us. The doors- it must be said – close very smartly. You need to get a real wiggle on. Not easy with two dogs, coats and rucksack! But we sat down and heaved a sigh of relief. It was 17C by now.

Our stop – Beau Soleil – (presumably named after our campsite?) was the end of the line and we tripped happily back to our little home.

The boys immediately fell asleep, while it was time for a cuppa for us.

Tonight we have spaggy bog for supper and we plan to watch the end of the film and pack up ready for the off tomorrow. Le Pay Basque beckons!

Some bloke with his bird

My quick review of Beausoleil. Lovely welcome. Madame speaks good English but switches between if she sees that you can follow her, It’s a cute little site with – I think – 30 pitches. The toilet and shower block are both mixed which I was perfectly fine with. The shower block is very clean and nice and warm. There’s a nicely comprehensive recycling area, all clearly labelled. Despite being near a road, it’s very quiet. And its a great location to pick up a bus to Bordeaux. Couldn’t be easier – bus to Peixotto, pick up the tram, the B line and off to town. Your ticket lasts an hour, after which you need another. there machines at every station . And the best bit? Dogs are allowed on both bus and tram.


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Beckenham and Bexhill Dec 20th to 31st

Well it’s been a while since we last posted – largely because we have been downsizing our goods and chattels, prior to moving to a new flat. Every weekend for months and months, it seems, has been tied up with sorting stuff into four piles – Keep, Tip, Sell or Charity shop. It’s just amazing how much stuff you accumulate in a lifetime.

We finally moved (after an agonisingly slow sale and an equally agonising but not-quite-as-long purchase) on 29th November. It soon became evident that, despite our best efforts, we had not got rid of enough “stuff” and for the first month we could not actually find enough space for a bed so the beloved caravan came in to play. We sited it a local pub – The Traveller’s Rest in Newtown – and we have spent our days and weekends at the flat, Paul working and me sorting stuff out and then sleeping in the caravan. It hasn’t been at all onerous – we love it. It’s very quiet at night – we don’t even hear noise from the pub – just owls at night and pheasants in the morning.

20th – 27th December

We were scheduled to be spending Christmas at my brother’s place in Beckenham, and had a slightly madcap plan to site our caravan on his drive, mainly to help with the pressure on accommodation. Measurements had been taken and it all looked feasible. We arrived later than planned (in the dark) but the van fitted pretty much perfectly – thank goodness! The journey had not been without stress and it was a relief to drop the steadies and relax.

The Christmas Tree at Bruce and Mel’s

We arrived on 20th Dec and left on the 27th, enjoying the run up to the big day, the day itself and leaving on the morning of Evie’s 14th birthday. We had such a great time and were sad to leave but new adventures on the South Coast beckoned.

The Birthday Girl

We left at around midday and set off for Kloof’s, near Bexhill on Sea, in East Sussex. It was an easy journey – less than 2 hours on good roads – apart from the approach to the site – which was pretty narrow and which required strict adherence to the instructions posted by the campsite rather than listening to the Sat Nav.

On arrival – whilst the campsite was open for business – there was no-one physically on duty and you had to ring through to find out what pitch you were on and where it was. The instructions given over the phone did not translate very well on the ground and we ended up overshooting and going round again, but we were soon all set up with the obligatory kettle on.

The pitch

The pitches are very nice – level and with a picnic bench, a place for a barbecue and water and drainage. Our favourite type of pitch. We got ourselves sorted out , had a cuppa and a light snooze, walked the dogs and then set off for Eastbourne, where I had arranged a grocery collection at Sainsbury’s. We drove there via Pevensey and Pevensey Bay – where there has been much building of new houses and if William the Conqueror were to land here today, as he did in 1066, I think he’d feel very lost! It was getting dark so we didn’t actually see that much – apart from houses.

It was the first time that I had done a pick-up for my grocery shop and it went very smoothly – apart from the fact that single-use plastic bags are not used any more and you have to very quickly unload everything, item by item. But it’s the same with Grocery delivery these days, too. Quite stressful when you have someone waiting at the door for you! But we were soon on our way “home” again, where we had dinner, watched a spot of television and then turned in early.

Our Christmas Tree
The site at sunset

Saturday 28 December

Our first priority was ablutions! The boiler at Bruce’s had packed up on Boxing Day – it still gave heat but no hot water, so showers had been impossible. Whilst we could not have been described as dirty, it was nice to feel fresh!

Ablutions completed, we set off in search of adventure and a coffee – not necessarily in that order! We had a drive along the front at Bexhill and then parked at Cooden Beach, where we let the boys out for a run on the dog-friendly beach. It was breezy and there were plenty of dogs to play chase with, including a sweet Border terrier bitch called Tilly. Border Terrier people always seem extra friendly and always seem interested to talk. Tilly’s Ma and Pa were no exception and the boys loved playing with her.

Having grabbed a coffee at the Cooden Beach Hotel, we pressed on along the coastline, via St Leonard’s to Hastings – a favourite of ours. But for the first time in all our visits, the East Hill Cliff funicular was running so we had to grab us a ride on that! There is a Country park and a beacon at the top and the boys had a good old romp.

On the way up
Passing the other carriage
The view from the top
The boys, taking in the view
The Beacon
Looking over Hastings beach

Hastings was pretty busy and we struggled to find any where for our – by now – late lunch. A quick bit of research on the very handy “Doggie Pubs” website, found us heading off towards the Three Oaks pub, which is aptly named as it is in the village of – yes – Three Oaks – up on the downs above Hastings.

The decor is quite interesting – consisting of what might be described as an eclectic collection of “pub ephemera”, including an enviable (if you’re in the market for one) collection of chamber pots! It might also be described as clutter! I’ll let you decide. But it also had on the menu Steak and Kidney Pudding. This is an increasingly rare sight, these days, where carbs are the enemy and many people eschew offal. We both opted for it and could not believe the size of the mighty meal when it arrived. I have included a picture below, but it does not do it justice. I reckon there was an entire bag or frozen peas each for starters! It beat both of us fairly and squarely and it was almost embarrassing sending the plates back, seemingly hardly touched.

As it was now late afternoon, we set off for home and a little nap to sleep off the effects of the food! We spent the evening playing our new board game – Sequence – which is thoroughly entertaining, followed by TV and bed. No tea required!

Sunday 29th

Being Sunday, we had our traditional boiled egg breakfast, before setting off for Kent and our destination – Hythe, one of the most important of the “Cinque Ports” – a collection of five towns who banded together – originally for military and trade reasons. The plan was to ride the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway to its terminus at Dungeness. Now – in all their blurb – the trains look like normal, full-sized trains. The reality is quite different, however. It is a narrow-gauge railway and the carriages fit 2 medium build people sitting side by side snugly. And the carriage height is less than 5 feet. You had to stoop to get in.

It dawned on us that we would be spending a good hour on this tiny train – not including a half hour “lay-over” at New Romney. How we laughed. But it was actually good fun and the boys – as usual – took it all in their stride.

Dungeness is special. It’s like nowhere else I’ve been. For a start – it has one of the largest expanses of shingle in Europe. It also – and many of you will have heard of this – has a lighthouse. Or rather, it has had a succession of lighthouses – seven to be precise. There are currently two. One which was built in 1904 and still stands but is not used. The newer one was built in 1961 and looks very elegant in my opinion.

The newer one was built partly because the sea had receded and partly because the older one’s light was obscured by the building of the Nuclear Power station, another Dungeness “feature”.

The houses are quite quirky too, being mainly wooden weatherboard beach houses, but there are also quite a few, built in the 1920s, around old railway coaches. One of the houses – the attractive Prospect House – was once owned by artist and film director Derek Jarman.

Derek Jarman’s cottage

The Nuclear Power Station dominates the skyline in quite an ominous way – although that may just reflect my fears over the use of Nuclear power and what happens when it all goes wrong or is shut down. Probably largely fuelled by the Chernobyl disaster.

Dungeness is one of those places that you have to want to go to. Being on a headland – or “cuspate foreland “, it’s not on the way to anywhere. There was an hour to kill there, and I really wished I had worn something warmer as there was a stiff and quite chilly breeze. Paul took the boys for a walk on the beach while I ordered our lunch. As you might imagine, everyone pours off the train and makes straight for lunch – it was a long queue! We were glad of our soup once we sat down (outside because of the dogs). Just what the doctor ordered.

The return journey by train was uneventful – although I did get stung on the arm by a confused bumble bee, which had somehow – and unbeknownst to me until just before it stung me – crawled inside my shirt and down my sleeve! I don’t know who was more shocked.

We finally arrived back just after sunset. The journey home was about an hour. Ted was sick a couple of times during the evening and we wondered if he had perhaps picked up something vile on the beach? We hoped he’d be better by morning.

Arriving at Dungeness
The 1904 lighthouse and the power station
The 1961 lighthouse from the platform
The boys on the train
Southern Maid Loco

Monday 30th

Poor Ted was still poorly, so we decided he needed to see the Vet. Luckily there was one close by, who were able to see him. She gave him an anti-emetic and prescribed the usual chicken and rice diet and said to bring him back if he continued vomiting. We hoped we wouldn’t have to.

It was a coat and sunglasses kind of a day. We bought coffee and went for a walk on the beach at Bexhill. Interesting modern seating. I liked. Apparently the bit we were on was “the posh bit”. But of course!

Paul has a little gift for me, I think?
Nice design

As we needed petrol, we went to Sainsbury’s (Nectar points) and what a nightmare THAT was! Le tous Eastbourne was on the road. Vexatious in the extreme. But soon we were off to Beachy Head (breezy!) where the boys had a nice walk.

See those wind-blown ears!
Cliff top view

Our next port of call was Birling Gap. The last time we had visited Birling Gap (some 10 years ago) it had been pretty much deserted. We watched the RNLA assisting what looked like illegal immigrants on the beach below. But since then, it’s been “National Trust-ised”. There is now a large cafe and gift shop and – consequently – hordes of people. Particularly Japanese tourists, who were really quiet numerous!

We had had a late start and it was late afternoon and a long time since breakfast and we fancied a spot of of (late again!) lunch. Well, parking was the first difficulty – luckily, after a couple of circulations, we saw a guy who was just leaving and grabbed his space. He even gave us his ticket, which was handy. And food? Forget it – the cafe was literally stripped bare! The ravening hordes had eaten pretty much every savoury thing and left just a few bits of cake, which we eagerly snapped up.

As the light was imminently going to fade, we made our way home by a quite circuitous route – as is often Paul’s wont – but including a stop for the boys to have another run around..

And to the East

We decided to eat out and went to the Lamb Inn, which we had passed several times and thought looked nice. My review on Trip Advisor, entitled “Distinctly Mediocre” says it all, I think? Rather disappointing.

Tuesday 31st

As we were off home tomorrow (New Year’s Day), we spent some time rationalising all the stuff in the boot and in the van to save time the next day. We also did some washing, using the great laundry facilities at Kloofs. Mainly bedding and towels, but a job well worth doing, if a little tedious. It was lunchtime before we ventured out.

We set off for Battle – a nice little town, with a great traditional butcher and some nice independent shops. I bought some fillet steak (for our New Year’s Eve supper) and a birthday present for a dear friend with a birthday in January. I’ll say no more in case she is reading this!

Gateway to Battle Abbey
The roundabout in Battle

We also popped in to Jempsons for some bits for lunch and a coffee. Jempsons are a local bakery/supermarket chain, who have a number of cafes, convenience stores, supermarkets and even a petrol station in the area. They even have their own foundation, set up to help community projects. Nice to see an independent giving the big guys a run for their money. Long may they continue to do so.

The next stop was Herstmonceux, former site of the Royal Greenwich Observatory (now in Cambridge). Sadly the 14th Century moated Castle was closed, but we could see some of the Grade 2 listed telescopes, from the footpath, where we walked the dogs. The largest telescope, the 100 inch (254 cm) aperture Isaac Newton Telescope was moved to La PalmaCanary Islands, in the 1970s. 

We finished our day with a quick trip to Sainsers for one or two bits (including “Smetana” – or in our case Crème fraîche) for our NYE supper and then home.

Our NYE supper was Beef Strogonoff – served with Pappardelle and pronounced delicious by my main food tester – Paul. After supper – although we hadn’t planned to stay up – we spent until gone midnight planning our next trip away. Sadly we had some very nosiy and inconsiderate neighbours who were talking very loudly, laughing and playing loud music until the early hours. But it was NYE so live and let live. I finally fell asleep around 2:30 and they were still going strong.

Weds 1st

We all awoke late and finally got packed up and on the road by midday. But the first thing we encountered was a road block, and what looked like – although we didn’t gawp – a fairly serious accident. We had to reverse and turn round but were aided by a friendly pick-up truck driver. This led to a bit of a detour, but we were soon on the dear old A27 and thence back to our temporary home in Newtown.

We particularly noticed, on this trip, what a bad state the roads are in and wondered why motorists weren’t up in arms about it. What actually happens to our Road Tax??!!

We arrived at about 2 pm, got ourselves set up, had a quick snooze and then went over to the flat, where George and Beth had cooked us a lovely meal of Fajitas. Yum. It was nice to be home, but we will soon be heading off on a bit of an adventure, so watch this space!


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Wareham Forest with the kids 22 – 26th August

It’s been a while before I have found time to do this, and I’m really thankful that I keep daily notes to jog my memory. I’ll be relying on those pretty heavily this time.

THURSDAY 22ND AUG

It’s a sign that these little’uns – our niece and nephew, Evie (13) and Lenny(8) aren’t so little any more, as for the very first time they arrived from London under their own steam (or perhaps their own diesel?) . Hitherto, we have met their parents half way, in Guildford, and carried out the swap-over. But this time, they came by train. It’s a pretty easy journey – they get on the train at East Croydon and get off at Portchester – no changes required, just a straightforward trip. And so it was that I trotted off to the station to greet them on that sunny Thursday. The trip had gone very smoothly and our first priority was to feed them.

Fed and watered, we set about the final tasks that needed to be done before we set off and then off we went. It was an uneventful journey and we arrived on site just before 4 pm. It was our second stay here at the Hunters Moon site within a couple of months, so we felt quite at home. We had a good choice of pitches and were soon settled in. The kids and Paul took the dogs for a quick walk and comfort break, while I did a bit more stowing of things. It was going to be a tight squeeze with 2 dogs, 2 kids and 2 adults but we actually managed very well.

Lenny doing the corner steadies
Making themselves at home

When the walkers returned, we decided we would pop into the nearest town – Wareham – and have an explore. We made for the Quay and by sheer luck, managed to find a parking space. We crossed the bridge over the river and set off for a walk along the towpath. It was a beautiful evening and lots of people were taking advantage of the early evening sunshine at this very pretty spot.

We were all getting a bit peckish, though, and decided to have dinner at the Quay Inn. They have a roof deck and we found ourselves a table there. It was very pleasant watching the sun as it started to set. Almost like being on holiday – oh – wait………

Bridge over the R Frome
The view from the bridge
Stunning Garden room
People watching
Waiting for our grub
Hello gulls!

Then it was home, a few games, ablutions and bed. A lovely first day.

FRIDAY 23RD AUG

We all had a good night and awoke refreshed and raring to go. The first job, however, was stowing all the bedding and getting the van into a state where we could actually move around. No mean feat!

Breakfast devoured and snacks and drinks packed, we set off about 10 am. Our first stop was Norden, where there is a mining museum which we thought the kids might enjoy. We parked and set off for the Museum only to find that it only opened at weekends. Foiled!

We walked up to the platform, where we bought drinks and a snack and then walked up to the view of Corfe Castle, which was an obvious photo opportunity, especially as a steam train chose that moment to depart for Swanage.

Lenny had a good bit of exercise playing on the very nicely designed climbing frames while we sat and watched, wishing we had as much energy as him!

As we were near Corfe Castle, we decided we’d pop and have a look at the castle, as it’s pretty impressive. Corfe was heaving but again, we struck lucky. It was very hot indeed by now and also nearly lunchtime, so we decided to have our lunch there at the charming National Trust Tea Room, which has a garden that affords stunning views of the castle. The sun was beating down mercilessly by now and we were lucky enough to get a table in the shade.

Lunch was very pleasant – although we were set upon by a marauding wasp! As has already been said, it was blisteringly hot, so we decided to leave actually visiting the castle itself until another day, when we would rock up up in the cool of the early morning. So we decided to go back to Wareham and see if we could hire a boat for a couple of hours.

Parking in Wareham was not easy, so Paul dropped us at the hire place and went off while we did the business of hiring a small motor boat. Larks! It was much cooler and very pleasant indeed on the water. We had a couple of hours and went up river first, admiring and slightly envious of the properties whose gardens had river frontage. Lucky people. The dogs were flakers and required regular water, bless them.

We turned round and went downstream and witnessed a very amusing (to us) and embarrassing (to her) SUP incident. She seemed to fall off in slow motion and completely disappeared under water, briefly, before re-emerging, coughing and spluttering. We had the good grace to hide our mirth. The good lord only knows how (or indeed if!) she got back on.

The “beach” area by the Quay was thronged with kids and dogs cooling off in the river. It was lovely to see everyone having such simple fun. The downstream area was much busier with lots of boats, but all too soon it was time to hand back the boat.

After we had handed back the boat, it was definitely time for an ice-cream. Sadly, everybody else had the same idea – a visit to The Quayside Barn Ice Cream Parlour. But it was well worth queuing and – once again – we managed to bag a table in the shade. Ice creams all round – even the dogs, and boy they went down well!

Even dogs like an ice-cream on holiday!

We walked back to the car and drove back to site for tea. The kids went to the play area while I cooked. We ate our tea and then decided that, as it was a nice evening we’d pop down to Poole Harbour wall to do a spot of crabbing. We didn’t catch any crabs but did catch a small spiny fish which went straight back.

It had been an action packed day, but there was still some life left in the kids so they went to the play area before bed. A lot of the kids were cycling around the site, as is often the case. We felt the lack of bikes quite keenly but there was nothing to be done about it. Bed beckoned and we were all soon in the land of nod.

SATURDAY 24th AUGUST

We decided to make it a beach day and set off for Weymouth. We felt the fear – Weymouth? On a Bank Holiday Weekend?? – but did it anyway. We were right to be a bit nervous about our decision! The beach looked not to have one square inch that wasn’t covered in people! Far too peopley for my liking, but a dip in the sea was very tempting (although guess who ended up minding the wet dogs?). We managed to find a parking space, walked to the beach and found a space just big enough for us and spread out our towels. The kids and Paul were off! There were loads of dogs on the beach and everyone had food so – after they had had a swim, I had the “joy” of trying to keep them under some sort of control. I and my towel ended up covered in wet sand! But we had a nice time. We went up to the quay to have our lunch. Stupidly we had run out of cash (easily done!) so Lenny only got to a go on the Waltzer at the nearby fair. He was in a carriage on his own and I was praying that the chaps wouldn’t spin it too much and scare him to death. They were very kind though and spun it just enough for it to be fun and he eventually got off quite happy, so no harm done.

Lunch break

We decided to walk into town and found a pet shop on the way, where we bought the boys a new collar each, their current ones being a little snug. They are growing up fast! We found a cafe that was selling smoothies so took advantage of them. We had a nice shady table and took it in turns to go shopping (Lenny and I) and in search of a cashpoint (Paul and Evie). Lenny ended up with a nice new T-shirt from surf/skateboard shop Saltrock.

Red for Ted, Bill wears Blue.

Shopping done, we went back to the car and started the drive home. We stopped off in Wareham for another ice cream (we’re on holiday,right?!), the kids had a swim in the chilly River Frome (see the amusing video of Lenny entering the water, here) and then we went back to the site. The kids went off to the play area and Paul and I relaxed with the boys for a while.

When dinner beckoned, we decided we’d pop down to our local to eat. The pub rejoices under the moniker “The Silent Woman” and has a charming image of a headless woman as a pub sign, the implication being that is the only way a woman could be silenced?

We had a nice meal and then returned to site where it was showers all round, games and bed after another action packed day!

Sunday 25th August

We had a slow start today. I think we were all a bit tired after our exertions the last couple of day so I made blueberry pancakes for breakfast, which went down well and the kids enjoyed helping to cook them on the Cadac.

There was cycle hire just up the road in Wareham Forest and Paul took the kids off to hire bikes and go for a ride along the Sika Trail, which they all thoroughly enjoyed. I stayed at home with the boys, took them for a stroll, relaxed, read and prepared lunch for the ravening hordes. They returned as hungry as expected! Luckily I was ready for them.

Uncle Paul enjoying himself!

After lunch it was time for a little more relaxation, a quick dash to Sainsers for provisions and then a late afternoon trip to Lulworth Cove, for a dip. There was – as ever – quite a queue to get to the car park and then it took a while to find a space as it was heaving.

Evie catching some rays.

When we had left Wareham, it had been a sunny, warm afternoon. By the time we hit the beach a sea haar had descended and Lulworth looked less like the limpid turquoise pool in all the publicity blurb and more like a grey Thursday in Dungeness. Frankly, I was pretty disappointed in Lulworth. The beach is very rocky so getting comfy is not easy, the walk into the sea is very rocky and I actually found it all a bit unnecessary! The kids didn’t think much of it either! But we’ve been. We shall never go again.

The dream
The reality!
Spooky pic of Evie!

Back from Lulworth, the kids went off to the play area while I cooked dinner, we ate, we washed up, we played dominoes, we did a little packing and thence bed.

Monday 26th August

The weather forecast was good, so we decided to pack up early and beat for home and a nice swim in the pool. This turned out to be a good plan! We swam and lazed most of the day and then ordered in a Chinese. Uncle D came round to help us eat it it and then games and bed. Paul and Lenny slept in the house while Evie and I slept in the caravan. We both slept very soundly and were rudely awoken by the flipping dustbin men!

Tuesday 27th August

We packed up all their stuff neatly and suddenly it was time time to stick them back on the train for home. We had a great time and, as always, wish we saw more of them. There may not be a next time (in the caravan) as we just might be on the boat by next year. Time will tell. There may be a long hiatus now as we are busy packing up and downsizing. The house is sold and we move out in just over a month. WATCH THIS SPACE


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PART 3 Moving on…..

Part 3 – Windermere based

Fri 28th

It was about an hour from our base on the excellent Borrowdale site, South to our home for the next week or so. We’d done most of our packing up the night before and it was an easy going morning. We slipped off site at just after 11 and once we’d retraced our steps along that windy, windy road and got onto the B5289 to Keswick, I was happy. Although we’d really loved it here, it was exciting to be moving to pastures new. And it was such a pleasant drive along the A591 to Windermere, driving alongside Thirlmere, Grasmere, Rydal Water and passing through Ambleside, Windermere and Bowness. It genuinely must be one of the most scenic A-roads in the country.

We were in no hurry and eventually arrived at our destination not far from the Southern tip of Lake Windermere  – Hill of Oaks – around 12:30. The access to the site is pretty hairy with a caravan and the site is vast – and yet you never really feel overlooked?

It was pretty quiet on site,  so we had lunch and set up – this pitch is fully serviced. Bliss. There is a launderette on site and, as it was so fine, I did a quick wash in one of their amazing Speed Queen washing machines. We rigged up a line and within 30 minutes, it was pegged out. Result!

We popped out at about 18:00 to do a shop in Booths in Windermere. We had hoped to get food out, but there were queues everywhere and parking was difficult with a Bill on board, so we went back to the site and cooked pizza, from scratch (OK – the dough was frozen) on the Cadac. You can’t get much fresher than that!

We relaxed and watched all the people rolling on to site for the weekend, still steaming from the M6 and felt a little smug. We really have the bedtime routine weighed off now, too. Bill is doing very well. So far, so good.

Saturday 29 June V 🥵

A lovely quiet night saw us refreshed and hungry. The blueberry pancakes had been such a success I decided to use up some bananas and make banana ones. Also delicious!

We had decided that we would take the Windermere Ferry, which runs from Ferry Nab on the eastern shore to Ferry House on the Western shore. It’s a chain ferry and can take up to up to 18 cars and over 100 passengers and takes less than 10 minutes. And it looked like fun! So off we set. It was a shortish queue when we arrived – we imagine it might be a different story at the height of the season! But we were soon on board and rattling across the lake.

Our first lake(let) was Esthwaite Water, a very pretty little lake. and then we passed through the very pretty little village of Near Sawrey, famous for its links with Beatrix Potter. What a lovely place to live! No wonder she was so inspired to write (23 children’s stories and still popular with kids today. No mean feat.).

We stopped in Hawkshead, equally famous for its links with William Wordsworth, who was educated at the Hawkshead Grammar School and went on to write one of the most famous English poems “Daffodils” – said to be set near Ullswater, which we visited earlier in this holiday (see Part 2). We needed some cold drinks and some lunch supplies and I also wanted to get a “Get Well” card for my dear friend Steve Reading , whom we had just heard had been taken ill and hospitalised with a burst appendix, poor chap. I found a very nice bakery with a Russian baker who cooked some really interesting breads, plus the usual bakery fare. This met our lunch needs perfectly.

But the main lake of interest today was Coniston Water (the 3rd largest lake after Windermere and Ullswater). Coniston Water was made particularly famous by Sir Malcolm Campbell, in 1939, when he set the world water speed record (a stonking 141.740 mph!) in his craft Blue Bird K4. He also set various land speed records. Somewhat amazingly, he died aged 63 of natural causes –  unlike many of his speedy contemporaries. His equally thrill-seeking son was killed on Coniston in 1966,  during one of his attempts to exceed 300 mph. I remember it quite clearly.

We stopped alongside the east side of Coniston Water to stretch our legs with the boys. Poor Bill was only allowed down for a pee break but Ted had a nice paddle in the lake. There were lots of families making the most of the weather and the lake. At this point we realised we had forgotten the camera. I say we. All I will say is I’m not in charge of the camera. 🙂

As we were going back to the car we heard quite a loud noise but couldn’t work out what it was. As we approached our car we got chatting to the family (Mum, Dad and 6 year old boy – very cute). Dad had just been getting their kayak off the roof and somehow it had slipped and ripped his electric wing mirror off. Loud noise mystery solved. We commiserated greatly and hoped their luck improved sand that they enjoyed the rest of their day.

We spent the remainder of the day up on the moors, getting the occasional glimpse of sea as we did so. It was beautiful up there and I have only one  picture to share, sadly. A ford with the clearest water ever! We later made our way back again ferry and were lucky enough to be about 8th in the queue , so we knew we’d get on the very next ferry. The Ferry Nab is very near our campsite, so we returned to the van for a cuppa and a relax, until early evening.

 

As we were so near the coast at this point, we decided to have an evening ride out to Grange-over Sands, which is – I guess you might say – an interesting place. It’s like a seaside town, complete with promenade but no discernible beach! It has (or rather had) an impressive Lido, which closed in 1993. There are plans to restore it and I hope they come to fruition. Great views over the incredible estuary and Morecambe Bay. The railway journey along this coast looks pretty amazing and we wished we had time to do it. Maybe one day?

But our thoughts were turning to food. Being in the North, I reckoned we’d probably be able to get a decent steak and kidney pudding at the local chippy. I was not disappointed! We called into the cleverly-named “Fish over Chips” and were rewarded with a delicious evening meal. It’s been a long time since I tasted such a delight. We ate it in the car overlooking the estuary and then returned to the van for a quiet remainder of the evening, of telly and bed.

Sheep grazing on the salt-marshes.

The Promenade at Grange over Sands

Sun 30th

We woke up to a very much fresher day and decided that we would use today to join up with the trip we had done along Ullswater to Patterdale. After our traditional Sunday eggs we set off. We hit really bad traffic on the outskirts of Bowness. It was rammed. In common with pretty much everyone else, we set about looking for an alternative route.

We went to Troutbeck and then decided to take the Kirkstone Pass which – drum roll! – is the highest pass in the Lake District that is open to motor vehicles. I say open – I think it must close in the winter as it’s so high. We loved it. Once we had reached Patterdale we turned round and made our way back but we had spotted an interesting road called “The Struggle. That sounded our sort of road, so off we went. There is a good account here, of what the descent to Ambleside is like, using this road. We really enjoyed it.

We had our lunch by a river, where we were joined by a very cute robin and had entertainment from a group of kayakers, who had to scramble over the rocks and then back in their kayaks. It looked like good fun. It was really very noticeably colder today – as you can see by the photo of Paul, below, sporting the dog towel to keep warm while we had lunch!

We spent the afternoon  up on the moors, visiting Elter Water and then returned to the van for a cuppa. Incidentally – whilst up near Troutbeck, we saw a pub sign for The Mortal Man which we thought was worth a photo. It bears the legend

“Oh mortal man that lives by bread, what is it makes thy nose so red? Thou silly fool that looks so pale, ‘Tis drinking Sally Burkett’s ale.”

It was a lovely evening so we went for a drive up to Cartmel Fell, and – on the way back, stopped for some lovely views over Windermere. As you can see – Paul will go to some lengths to get the best shot – especially if he has remembered the camera!

I should mention that we have a holiday romance. Ted seems utterly besotted with a very pretty chocolate lab who was pitched opposite us. He was beside himself every time he met her and spent time watching her from afar. It was a very difficult moment when they packed up and went home on Sunday evening. Poor Ted. It ended the way so many holiday romances do, with a broken heart.

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Mon 1st Jul

Another lovely day and we were heading South (along with many other things in my experience!). We set off – avoiding main roads as much as possible and soon, we spotted a sign for Tewitfield Locks – a name I recalled from conversations with my Dad. It is the current terminus of the Lancaster Canal. Many of the other miles to Kendal are currently un-navigable but there are ambitious plans to restore the canal from Tewitfield to Kendal – including the Tewitfield locks – a flight of 8 –  which are currently in a very poor state of repair . We had to go and have a look, of course.

The path to the locks runs side by side with the M6 – I think it’s the closest to a motorway that  I’ve ever walked! We met a party of ramblers walking the towpath and Bill & Ted were much admired an coo-ed over.

We called in to Booths in Carnforth, as is now traditional, for coffee and a few bits for lunch and then pressed on to Bolton le Sands – where there was more canal to be viewed and lunch to be eaten overlooking the estuary. And thence to Morecambe – a fairly “typical ” seaside town. And of COURSE we went in search of (and found) the famous statue of Eric Morecambe.

Our Bolton le Sands lunch stop

After Morecambe, we pressed on to Lancaster and went looking for the canal. Lancaster is a big University town and we found student halls of residence actually on the canal basin! Lucky students – although I bet they don’t really appreciate it.

Student Accommodation – Lancaster Canal

Lancaster has a really impressive castle but – being pretty much car-bound – we could not explore it. We also saw a really prominent memorial/folly, known as the Ashton Memorial. It was built by one James Williamson, 1st Baron Ashton, in memory of his 2nd wife. It is also nicknamed the Taj Mahal of the North and he obviously loved and missed her a very great deal, it’s so impressive. And when I mention that he spent a cool £87 grand – the equivalent of well over 2 million pounds today – you’ll fully understand!  Worth a visit for its views over Lancaster and Morecambe Bay.

Leaving Lancaster, we picked up the M6 to get us home quickly and, instead of going out by car tonight, we went for a stroll, on site, to the lake’s edge, where we sat and soaked up the early evening rays and Ted tried to catch some ducks.

Tuesday 2nd

Today, we decided to head to Ulverston – for no other reason than we just fancied it! And it gave us a chance to sing Ulverston to the tune of Glen Campbell’s “Galveston”. Great song. As we approached, we were intrigued to see what looked like a lighthouse. We took quite a few pictures – each time thinking we had the “money shot”. On researching, we found it was the “Hoad Monument” – actually built to look like a lighthouse and commemorating local big-wig, Sir John Barrow. 

We called into Booths for our customary late morning coffee and then as we were driving through town we saw signs for “Canal Foot” – well that had to be investigated, didn’t it?

So glad we went and found it. It was the terminus of the Ulverston Canal – a very short waterway, not connected to the main network and used for transporting slate and coal onto bigger boats in Morecambe Bay (via the River Leven) , until the railways took over. The area has been very nicely landscaped by the local authority, who should be very proud of their handiwork. We chatted to a rather odd couple, who were magnet fishing by the top gates of the sea-lock. They were very proud to tell us about their haul, which had included, on one memorable occasion, they said  – a handgun!

The sea-lock at the end of the Ulverston Canal.

 

The River Leven estuary at Ulverston

As we drove out of town, we noticed a pub called “The Stan Laurel”. This immediately piqued my curiosity and, upon researching, it transpired that Ulverston is the birthplace of Stan Laurel. It made you wonder how a guy from a quiet Cumbrian town could have ended up as one of Hollywood’s biggest stars. We also saw that an enterprising florist had called their shop “Floral & Hardy” – nice!

The Stan Laurel Inn, Ulverston

We decided that we would go over Bank House Moor towards the estuary of the River Dudden and Kirkby in Furness. It was a great drive and we were amazed to see – across the fells, in the mist in the distance – the Isle of Man! I immediately contacted my friend Heidi – who is Manx – to tell her that I was waving to her. My phone actually picked up a Manx mobile phone company, too.

The outline of the Isle of Man

We drove on up the coast to pretty little Ravenglass, which has Roman connections dating back to at least the 2nd Century. Indeed, the Romans were in occupation for over 300 years. There is very little evidence today of their presence, other than the remains of a Bath House.

On the way we had caught a glimpse of the privately owned Muncaster Castle, which has been in the hands of the Pennington family for over 800 years. I found that interesting as it is the name of the wealthy land-owner in The Hired Man. Nowadays, many events are held at the castle, to help pay for its upkeep. We stopped to grab a picture on our return journey.

Muncaster Castle

We returned home to the van and had our dinner and a relaxing evening.

Wed 3rd

Today was our penultimate day before we started the long journey South. I didn’t want to leave the area without a quick visit to Kendal. It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed our visit, which wouldn’t have been complete without a trip to Booths – I have a loyalty card now! I also popped into B&Q to buy the boys a new toy-box as their old one had become too small.

A couple of views of Kendal

We returned to the van for lunch and then set off for Bowness, where we had booked a boat for the afternoon (well, 2 hours of it, at least!).

Parking was pretty tricky so Paul ended up dropping me, Bill and his crate near the jetty, going off to park and then returning with Ted. It was another sweaty logistical pain, but we were soon off. This boat was supplied by Bowness Bay Marina and was electric – very much quieter than our previous boat on Derwent Water!

It was a memorable afternoon, with perfect weather and perfect scenery. We had time to cruise up to Ambleside, where we got glimpses of Wray Castle and the mountains beyond and then all the back, past Bowness to Ferry Nab, where we watched the chain ferry from the water. Even Bill was able to have some time out of his crate. We all really loved it and were sad to have to hand the boat back. They very kindly said we could bring the car down on to the jetty when we left, which made life a great deal easier. An ice-cream was the finishing touch to a really lovely afternoon.

Ted – ahoy there!

Bill – enjoying his boat trip

A very small selection of the many pictures we took

 

Thurs 4th

We decided to just relax and potter on our last day instead of haring around. We had a very leisurely breakfast, put on a load of washing, did some cleaning and a bit of packing and suchlike, in preparation for commencing our journey home. We also did a fair bit of relaxing and reading and made a last trip to Booths (Windermere) for provisions for the journey and evening meals. We have thoroughly enjoyed our stay in the Lakes. It hasn’t been the holiday we planned, but I think we have made the best of a bad job. We would both have been so desperately disappointed to have had to postpone or cancel. We can’t believe our luck, either. 2 weeks in the Lakes and only one night of rain and one properly gray and overcast day.

To be continued/……………


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Jun 20th to July 7th – The Lake District Part 2 – The First Week (23/6 to 27/6)

Part 2 – Derwent Water based

Sunday 23rd

After a lovely, peaceful night, we set off late morning, having a quick look at Bassenthwaite (gorgeous) and then on to Cockermouth – birthplace of Fletcher Christian. Indeed, there is a pub named after him. This town also had literary connections for us, being mentioned in Howard Goodall’s “The Hired Man” – another of my favourite shows. We rather liked Cockermouth, which claims to be the first town in Britain to have piloted electric lighting – although they soon went back to gas, apparently! Many people remember Cockermouth’s name because of the dreadful flooding in 2015.

Cockermouth High Street

Maryport was our next port of call – again mentioned in The Hired Man. Maryport was very nice indeed, with a small fishing fleet in a cute harbour. Ted and I spent some time on the beach, paddling and messing about in rock-pools, whilst Paul  cuddled Bill, who was jst gald to be out of his crate, poor chap.

The harbour at Maryport

View across to Scotland

The Prom

Me and Ted rock-pooling

Yesterday, we had discovered that Paul had no pants. I had got them out and put them ready to pack. He had carefully put them all away in his drawer, thinking he was doing “a good thing”. He did try and blame his lack of nether-garments on me, but I was having no truck with that! Our next port of call was Workington, and a large ASDA for pants and some lunch bits and pieces.

Workington is much more “industrial” than Cockermouth. It is (or sadly was) an iron and steel town and Henry Bessemer constructed his first “converter” here, an invention which revolutionised the steel-making industry.

We ate our rather late lunch overlooking the water at Derwent Howe – a suburb of Workington – and then pressed on along the coast to Whitehaven (another Hired Man place name). You can see where the coal mine that went out “under the sea” used to be. The “Candlestick Chimney” is a fine sight and and is on the site of the former Wellington pit, where there was a dreadful accident in 1910. A plaque on the wall below the chimney commemorates all the “Men, Women and Children” of the Whitehaven District Collieries who lost their lives in the local pits. There is a lightning rod at the top and the chimney is supposed to vent methane from the pit. A flash ignited the gases in 1984 which burnt for 5 hours! The pit was eventually closed in 1932, by the way.

Whilst there Paul spotted a gathering of Puch and other similar vintage mopeds and went over to have chat with the gents who were proudly displaying them. Paul’s first “motorbike” was a Puch Maxi. Such nostalgia.

En passant -we were also rather taken with this fetching little Citroen 3 wheeler.

Our final call that day, was St. Bees, where we got the chairs out and sat by the beach for a while, watching the world enjoying their Sunday, and eating ice-cream. We loved St Bees. It’s easy to see why it’s a popular holiday spot.

We’d enjoyed our coastal day but it was time to go back to our lovey forest spot for dinner and – eventually – bed. As we drove home, it was getting grey and misty and we knew rain was probably on its way.

Still beautiful.

Monday 24th

It had been a noisy night – it actually rained quite hard and we must all have had a disturbed night because we had all overslept. It was 09:15 when the boys let us know they were ready to start the day – unusually late for them!

We had a morning of tidying and showering and such like and then set off to meet an old friend, Cath Marcangelo. I used to work with Cath many years ago and this was to the first time I’d seen her for perhaps 30 years. We agreed to meet for lunch at the picturesquely located Cafe at the Theatre by the Lake in Keswick. We had such a great time and talked and reminisced for ages. She already knew Paul but it was the first time I had met her musician husband, John,  too. A very enjoyable lunch, which stretched on into the afternoon and was only cut shorter by our respective parking tickets running out. John was very helpful as both Bill and his crate had to be carried to and from the car park.

Cath runs a choir called “Committed to Rock” and invited me to go along to their rehearsal on Tuesday night, in Keswick. Larks! How could I not go?

 

After we’d said our goodbyes we picked up a couple of fresh items from Booths – which is my new discovery! It is known as the “Waitrose of the North” although I think they prefer Waitrose to be known as the “Booths of the South”! Either way, it is a fab supermarket , and once discovered, we did all our shopping at one or another of their branches. They can be found all over the North-West.

As there was still some day left, we decided it was time for another lake – this time Buttermere. It was yet another beautiful lake and I love that they are all beautiful and all slightly different. As it was so near, we decided to press on to Crummock Water, where we strapped Bill into his baby sling (donated by Beth’s sister) and went for a short walk. He is pretty heavy now so anything more than a short walk would be too much for Paul, but it was really nice to stretch our legs.

We had passed a farmhouse doing home made ice-creams on the way to the lakes and dropped in there on the way back. The hazelnut flavour was memorable.  And then it was back to Keswick and thence home via the impressive Honister Pass, which we absolutely loved. Beautiful scenery.

Tuesday 25th

Today was the turn of Ullswater – another beautiful lake. We are both so glad we came. I had very hazy memories from when I was only 8 years old and this was a first ever visit to the area for Paul. We are loving it.

Pooley Bridge, at the Northern tip of Ullswater was a pretty and bustling little village and we thought we might stop off there on the way back, but pressed on along the shore. We eventually stopped for coffee in Glenridding – and we are on holiday so it was accompanied by a piece of cake, naturally. The cafe was called Let It Brew and was just to our taste – great coffee and yummy cake. We rounded off our trip round this area of the lakes by a visit to Patterdale, beloved of walkers and also the valley from which the cute Patterdale Terrier gets its name.

We stopped and took a look at the OS map and decided our next visit would be to Thurlmere, where there was a nice circular drive around the lake. Instead of going back the way we had came (and on to Pooley Bridge) we set off across country. We were absolutely delighted to have a sighting of a couple of Hares. Paul managed to get a couple of good pics. The road we had chosen gave us good views of Helvellyn and then dropped down onto the A591. As we started our tour, we noticed that Thurlmere was very low. We were aghast to find that the road we wanted to take to complete our tour round the lake was closed UFN. Very disappointing.

We set off back to Keswick, and as the food had been nice the day before and to save the bother of cooking tonight, we went back the the Cafe at the Theatre by the Lake. Fish and Chips. Delish!

Paul, tucking in

 

Afterwards we went back to the van, where we all had a little beepy before getting ready to go and see a rehearsal of Cath’s choir at Keswick Conservative Club, which is dog friendly. We had a great evening singing along – they really make a great sound and Cath is an absolute marvel with them. SO proud of her. Gutted I didn’t take any photos.

By the time we finished there we were both hungry again, so we grabbed a quick takeaway pizza to fill us up and then home to bed.

Wednesday 26th

As we were so near the Border, we thought we couldn’t miss an opportunity to visit Scotland and so we set off, joined the M6 and hurtled North towards Carlisle. We left the M6 briefly for a quick tour round Carlisle. The Castle is very impressive and we saw the McVities factory. Now – here’s a statistic for you that will blow your mind! Every 24 hours, McVities produces over 6.5 million Custard Creams! There!! Feel free to use that any time. Carlisle was also the only UK city through which the Olympic Flame passed, twice, in 2012. It’s also the home of Eddie Stobart. I’m going to leave you wanting more! Suffice to say we really liked Carlisle.

We were also quite taken with the more modern Shaddon Mill (sadly no pics but follow the links) and its towering chimney. In its heyday, Shaddon was the biggest mill in England and had the 8th tallest chimney (Dixon’s Chimney) in the world. See? I’ve been reading up. And it was built very tall so as not to pollute the streets of Carlisle. Originally it was 305 ft tall, but in 1950 it was shortened to 290 ft. What a sight that must have been before it was truncated. It’s pretty amazing now. Having then, accidentally,  gone down a bus lane, we decided it was time to leave Carlisle and press on to Scotland. We are waiting to see if a fine will materialise.

We skipped back onto the M6 and finally crossed the border near Gretna Green. I had visited as a child (in the early 60s) and it was very different to my recollections. Back then it was a quaint tourist attraction. Today – it ‘s a BIG BUSINESS! Outlet shops, food concessions. No longer quaint that’s for sure. I bought one or two Scottish delicacies to take home including some Abernethy biscuits (one of my favourites) and some Scottish Macaroons for my friend and ex-pat Scot Steve. They are very different to English Macaroons, being more like mallow snowballs, coated in coconutty chocolate. I also bought a couple of bits for our lunch, including – reader I kid you not – a Macaroni Cheese Pie. Whatever next?!

 

The “LOVE” padlock wall at Gretna Green

 

We didn’t stay long at Gretna and decided to visit Annan. Annan is an ex boat building town and it was interesting to drive down to the old harbour/docks. So sad that industry here has collapsed.

A few views of the town

And the port/harbour

As it was nearly lunch-time, we drove down to Annan Beach, which overlooks the Solway Firth. It was a lovely afternoon so we got the chairs out and had our lunch there. We saw one chap walk out onto the sand with a strange net thing over his shoulder, and then another and yet another. Paul got talking to one of them and he told him all about it. It’s called Haaf Netting and is only practiced in a few places now, Annan being one of them. It may date back to Viking times. Haaf is Norse for “Channel”. And it’s quite hazardous – the men really have to know the tides. Fascinating stuff – the sort of thing that you see on Country File. Its strangely beautiful – considering that it’s mostly mud-flats.

As we drove back towards the M6, we saw a sign for “The Devil’s Porridge Museum” Intrigued, I looked it up. It seems that HM Factory Gretna was the largest producer of cordite in WW1. Cordite is very volatile and the stuff they made resembled porridge – hence the name. And it was actually dubbed that by Sir Arhur Conan Doyle who, after visiting wrote “The nitroglycerin on the one side and the gun-cotton on the other are kneaded into a sort of a devil’s porridge; which is the next stage of manufacture…those smiling khaki-clad girls who are swirling the stuff round in their hands would be blown to atoms in an instant if certain small changes occurred”. Wow!

We headed back down the M6 to keswick, did a quick flick round Booths and then home to relax. I got Paul some Ilkley Brewery Bitter (very drinkable. Quite hoppy and refreshing. Might be nice served chilled). Dinner, movie, bed.

Thursday 27th

It was a sort of “pottering morning” and – for a change – I made some blueberry pancakes which, served with a little Maple Syrup, really hit the spot, in combination with a strong hot coffee. I love holidays!

Freshly made blueberry pancakes

Today’s destination was the Castlerigg Stone Circle, just outside Keswick. It’s probably walkable but not with poor Bill in his current condition. We popped into Booths to grab another coffee and some picnic food and then drove to the site. It was a perfect day and the awesome view that met us brought a tear to my eye. It is PERFECT – actually more impressive than Stonehenge in my opinion. There is a certain atmosphere to the place and we loved it. If you’ve never been you’ve really missed a treat for your eyes and – somehow – your soul. It sounds odd but that’s how I felt. Uplifted! Sadly, the photos just not do it justice, but if you follow this link, there’s a cracker

We had decided that today would be the perfect day for a trip round Derwentwater. It was a quite a complex process logistically – getting us, the dogs, the crate and a few provisions – drink mainly – from the car park to the boat. It was also very sweaty!! And – to be honest – the organisation was a bit of a shambles. We rocked up, then another couple, then a gaggle of lads, then a family and then guy handing out life jackets and doing the briefings just up and disappeared, leaving us all standing in the glare of the sun. For – like – a quarter of an hour! I was a tad grumpy by the time he showed up again, but we were soon ensconced on the boat and off we went, to cries of “Rock! Rock Neville! Neville – ROCK!”.  It was a lovely – the lap takes about an hour and was very relaxing – apart from the noisy little outboard, sputtering away behind us!

We did the return to the car slightly more simply, as Paul drove the car down to the lake’s edge – bit cheeky, but we had a pretty good excuse! We then set off for home and Paul asked if it was OK if we popped up the road we had seen a couple of time on the way to the campsite. It did look interesting! And boy! Was it steep!  And then some. The road leads to Watendlath Tarn  and was so worth the trip up – even all the hairy passing manouevres! And there were quite a few of those. It’s a bonkers road! Just our cup of tea! We stopped for a photo opportunity on the way back down. Just stunning.

Watendlath Tarn

Surprise View – Derwentwater

So glad we stopped to do this, as this was our last day here. We had absolutely loved it and really did not want to leave. I was worried that our next site wouldn’t be as nice. So it was back to the site to eat and do some tidying and packing, ready for the off tomorrow.

To be continued…………

 

 


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Jun 20th to July 7th – The Lake District Part 1 – the arrival

Is our holiday ACTUALLY a go-er?

In our last post, we arrived home on Sunday afternoon. On Sunday evening, disaster struck! Paul was out walking the boys just as he has always done and the boys were playing, just as they have always done. He heard a loud yelp and Bill emerged from the bushes limping and unable to bear weight on his left back leg. He carried him home. We thoroughly examined his leg and could find no place from where any pain emanated. We cuddled him and then put him to bed for the night, resolving to take him the vet if things had not improved. By morning he really was no better so it was off to our vet (Portchester Vets). After a very thorough examination, the vet diagnosed that he had fractured his “tibial tuberosity” – effectively a broken leg. It is apparently a very common injury in puppies and is more often caused by jumping off a bed or sofa. As Bill had eaten that morning, he could not be X-Rayed and so we arranged one for the following day. He advised to keep Bill in his crate. Thank goodness we crate-trained them from the start!

The next morning (Tuesday) , the X-Ray was taken and he was proved right. We were offered a choice of veterinary hospitals and chose Anderson Moores in Winchester. They set up an appointment for us for that afternoon and we drove over with Bill, still drowsy from his X-Ray sedation. We had a consultation with the lovely and talented surgeon James Grierson, who explained everything in full detail and said that they would be keeping Bill in overnight and operating the next morning. He explained that Bill would need to be kept in a crate for 6-10 weeks after the op. That was a bit of a shock.

We said goodbye to Bill and – reassured by James saying he thought that Bill would be a big hit with the team and would not be lonely – we drove home. I think we both had a bit of a lump in our throats as we drove away. Poor Bill.

Before we left, we sought James’s advice as to whether he thought we should cancel our holiday or go – either way Bill would need to be kept in his crate. He said that if we were prepared to follow his instructions and only let Bill out for pee times, that he was quite happy for us to go. We had planned a walking/cycling/boating holiday and would have to modify our plans, but we could still go. That was a relief.

The op went well and Bill was kept in on Wednesday night too. We arranged to pick him up and be shown what needed to be done with regard to his recovery at 1 pm on Thursday. We decided to take the caravan to our appointment and continue our journey North from there.

Thursday 20th June

We spent the morning finishing our packing and set off for the hospital to pick up Bill. He was still a bit woozy and we were given instructions as to how to cope with the wound and the physio showed us what we needed to do, 3 x daily – to aid his recuperation. We popped him in his home for the next 6 weeks – aka his crate – and hit the road, bound for Woodstock.

Our destination for the first night was one of our oft-visited sites – Bladon Chains – just off the A34 at Woodstock. It was a smooth journey until the last leg, off the A34 – which was very heavily queued. Just before the turn-off to the site, on the verge was a couple of proper bow-topped Romany caravans and horses – they seemed to be producing wood carvings (by chain-saw) for sale. It was very picturesque, and I’d love to have taken a picture as it’s a rare sight, but it seemed a bit rude to do so.

When we checked in, the lady told us that there would be fireworks at 23:00 as Gladys Knight was appearing at Blenheim Palace (in the grounds thereof, which adjoin the campsite). Great! But at least we now knew what the queue was all about! We use a very basic set-up for one night stops which comprises a 5 litre water container for drinking water and a bucket for our grey waste, so set-up was pretty quick.

We needed to go and get a few bits for Bill – such as a “cone of shame” and some natural calming tablets so we set off for Oxford. It was rush hour and took longer than we had hoped, but we did see some bits of Oxford that we had never seen before. We got all we needed and made our way back – through the queue – again. Then it was supper and an early night as we were all tired. The fireworks were very loud indeed so we didn’t get to sleep early! That one night cost us £24.30 by the way.

Friday 21st June

Up and at it. We had about 180 miles to do today, so we wanted to get on the road as early as possible and breakfast en route. With such a basic set-up it doesn’t take long to get ready and soon we were off, heading further North.  Our destination was The Old Barn in Heskin, near Chorley, Lancs. – very near Charnock Richard services, for those of you accustomed to travelling the M6.

As we left we noted very heavy traffic heading for another event at Blenheim Palace. We were very glad we were heading in the opposite direction!

We stopped at the first services to get breakfast and then continued our journey, stopping as and when we felt the need for coffee/pees etc. We arrived at our destination at around 14:30. The access was very narrow indeed and my heart was in my mouth for the last 10 minutes or so.

The site was very basic – although it had hard-standings and everything we needed and even a shower if required. The farmer helped us with a longer lead for the hook-up and then set off on his mower to mow a path round the field to act as a dog walk! How lovely it was.

Our view from the van

Poor old Bill

Ted chillaxing

As it was a lovely sunny afternoon we relaxed and read. There was just one other van on site and they had some very yappy dogs. As I walked to the path the farmer had so kindly mowed, I was assailed by 5 very noisy and aggressive seeming chihuahuas. I quickly scooped Ted up, and in the ensuing kerfuffle my favourite necklace got broken. I tried to tell the lady who had, by now, come to gather up her unruly pack. She didn’t hear me, it seemed, so I said it again a little louder. “Your dogs have broken my necklace” quoth I. All I was met with was the lady rapidly beetling off with her little yappers in tow. I was NOT amused. But her husband was very burly and – even though they were right across the field from us, e could hear him effing and jeffing non-stop. The flipping dogs should have been on a lead, as ours were. But I wasn’t going to tell him, coward that I am.

A cuppa soon assuaged my temper and then, when the sun had waned a little, we decided to go out and explore the surrounding area. We set off for Parbold, through which the Leeds and Liverpool canal runs and were rewarded by the sight of a very quaint old ex-Windmill. And then it was on to Chorley, home of the famous Chorley cake and of course, this being Lancashire, cotton mills. It’s quite a pretty town. We then pressed for home, stopping at the local shop where I found some fabulous delicacies, made by the famous (locally) Handley’s Bakery, of which more tomorrow. I also bought a couple of beers – an American Shipyard IPA (smooth and not too hoppy) and a  Buster IPA from Clitheroe-based Bowland Brewery (refreshing clean taste). Some food, a bit more reading and bed. It was going to be a lovely quiet one, with virtually no noise from the M6.

The Old Mill at Parbold

Leeds & Liverpool Canal – Parbold

Chorley – in its summer finery

Sat 22 Jun

After a good night’s sleep, we were raring to go and decided, as we only had just over 100 miles to do today, we’d have a pleasant breakfast in the “garden”. Mr Burly of Burly’s Chihuahuas walked by and I went to smile at him. No dice. No eye-contact. No pleasantries. We were quite glad when they left. And then, just before 11:00, it was time for us to go. And we had found another, rather less scary way of leaving the site with easy access back on to the M6, so we were soon under way. First stop was at the Lancaster Services, with it’s rather space-age tower.known as the Pennine Tower. Some fascinating facts about it here.  Coffee time and a Handley’s “Courting Ring” each. Yum. Courting Cake is a Lancashire tradition and you can find a recipe here. But they seem to vary between a slightly firmer Victoria Sandwich to being made of Shortbread – or a combination of both. Ours was rather less elaborate and very definitely shortbread based – more like a Scottish Empire Biscuit (one of my favourites).

The Pennine Tower – Lancaster Services M6

We rolled further North and were soon getting glimpses of hills as our destination loomed ever nearer. For lunch, we had a Handley’s Beef Pie – very similar to a Pork Pie, but made with Beef. Delicious! Soon we were nearing Keswick – at the opposite end of Derwentwater to where our campsite is. As luck would have it, we couldn’t get a decent signal so could not check the the instructions provided for very rural sites. And typically, our sat-nav took us down what looked like a reasonable route, initially, but soon looked a bit foolhardy. We stopped a taxi driver who told us that the route was madness with a caravan, so the ever cool, calm and unflappable Mr Sumpner found a place to unhitch and turn the caravan round. We went the way the taxi driver advised and once in Keswick we got enough signal to follow the prescribed instructions. A salutary tale – I should have loaded the page earlier, while I had some signal. Lesson learned!!

Even following the proper route, It was pretty hairy in places and – just as we turned into the site we met a Dutch couple who really weren’t sure what to do so they passed on the wrong side! No problem though. But it was good to be at the site. We found a lovely spot, right at the end of one of the roads with a clearing that was very much “ours”! We were very pleased. We thought we’d like it here.

Rough location of our pitch

It was very peaceful. I had been too stressed to look at the Lake on the very narrow approach to the site. I was actually dry mouthed!! So, after we had done a “full” set up, we decided to go for a circumnavigation . I was excited to see some of the islands, such as Rampsholme, which feature heavily in one of my favourite plays “Neville’s Island” by Tim Firth.  We stopped in Keswick for beer for Paul –  Keswick Bitter (a little too bitter). We then made our way back to the site and had a barbecue. I really think I might be over barbecue? Both of us felt the same. And then it was time for SHOWERS! Reader – we had not showered since Thursday morning – although we had washed of course. It was utter bliss. The site has no facilities, as it’s a forest site, so we used our own, which I prefer anyway.

Our glade pitch

Derwent Water

Little Rampsholme on the right

And then we watched a little telly, after which we started the new bedtime routine which, with Bill’s injury to be attended to, is rather lengthy! We have ice for as long as he will stand it (between 10 and 20 minutes) and then do some simple physio, the boys both have to be taken out to pee and then (and only then) we can settle down for the night. It was so quiet – and yes – there was an owl or too. My favourite. And the holiday stretching out for days and days to enjoy. Happy dreams…………

 

to be continued………..

 


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Jun 14 to16 – Dorset with Bob and Barb

Friday 14th

The time had come round again for our annual trip with lovely Bob & Barb Shorter. As we met RV-ing in Canada it always seems apt that we have an annual camp; them in their trusty Hymer and us in our Caravan. We had an exciting day planned for Saturday, but the weather wasn’t looking too good. Only time would tell.

It is a reasonably short journey to the Hunter’s Moon  caravan site, near Wareham, where we had planned to meet, but traffic was quite heavy. The site is just on the edge of Wareham Forest, near (of course!) Wareham. The Shorters had arrived not long before us and the site was already busy. We could not find a pitch together so we settled for one nearby. Our pitch was actually ideal as there was plenty of room for the pups to play.

As soon as we were settled, Bob and Barb came over for a drink and a few nibbles, while I put the dinner on. This was the first time B&B had met our boys, who very quickly made their presence known! I had made a lasagne earlier and we were soon tucking in with some salad and garlic bread. We spent the evening catching up on our respective families, and our plans and it was soon time for bed. We arranged to convene at 9:00 in the morning, as we needed to be in Poole by 09:30.

Saturday 15th

The weather had worsened overnight and it was blowing an absolute hooley. We had a trip booked on a boat, with Poole City Cruises,  to view the Jurassic Coastline – including the Old Harry Rocks, ending up in Swanage, where we would be dropped off and would make the return journey by steam train.

We set off – clad for bad weather  – and arrived to find that Poole had been overrun by Pirates! It was the 600th Anniversary of the death of one Harry Paye – a notorious pirate from the 14th Century. A fun day is held every June on Poole Harbour to commemorate Harry’s life and we had rocked up as they were preparing for the celebrations.

We reported to the City Cruises booth and were not surprised to hear that – as a result of the inclement weather – the trip would be curtailed. It would sail slightly later and do an “out and back”, not calling at Swanage. Disappoinitng but not unexpected. As we had a while to wait, we went and got a coffee and watched the Pirate preparations.

We felt very sorry for the organisers and participants as a lot of work clearly goes in to the event. We watched them trying to put up bunting and decorations, battling the heavy winds. Poor things. After coffee, we went for a quick look round the shops and then it was time to board. The skies were very grey and rain was spitting in the wind as we set off.

But we are British! We don’t let a little cyclone get in the way of us enjoying ourselves! Admittedly, it was a bit lumpy at sea but we saw the sights and the commentary was very good – fun and informative. The Old Harry Rocks, which we’ve seen from the land, are very impressive from the sea. They are Chalk “stacks” – formed by erosion and some say they are named after the devil, who once slept there and others say they were named to commemorate the Pirate ” Old Harry” Paye, who used to hide there and ambush the French trading ships. As you can see, they are much like the Needles, off the Isle of Wight.

We arrived back just as the Fun Day was kicked off by a canon shot. It was very LOUD! It doesn’t sound it in the video below but it really was!

As the train tickets were still valid, we decided to drive to Swanage via the chain ferry at Sandbanks. On the way, we phoned for advice about parking and were advised that it would be best to pick up the train at Norden, which is the best station for parking for the Swanage Railway, so we headed there.

By now, the weather was brightening and the sun was showing its face at last. We had a bit of time to kill until the next train and bought sandwiches and coffees from the very good little cafe on the platform. After lunch, I looked after the dogs while the others went to visit the Mining Museum. The dogs were dropping off – it had been a long morning – and all of a sudden a flurry of wings and a little fledgling landed on my arm. I was so surprised and so,I think, was he or she. It may even have been a maiden flight! I could not believe it and inched very carefully to get my phone to take a picture of my little visitor. Just then someone walked by and it startled the bird. He flew to the spot where I finally managed to take a picture.

He didn’t stay long and the others missed it. They arrived back shortly after my encounter and we all got on the train which arrived just after them. They tell me the museum was well worth a visit. We chugged off and very soon arrived at Corfe Castle, where the trains halt for a while (I think they maybe turn round?). We used it for a photo opportunity – or two.

And then we were off again in the now bright sunshine. We arrived at Swanage station and went for a leisurely walk around the town and along the prom. There was some sort of rowing race on and it was all very busy. We walked down to a pier and had an ice-cream and watched people crabbing, before walking back up to town to catch the train back to Norden. We’d had a lovely day despite the weather and a change of plan.

We went back to our respective abodes to spruce up and rest for a while, before heading back to the very pretty village of Corfe Castle for our evening meal at the dog-friendly Greyhound Inn, where Barb and the boys sampled some nice beers. The food was very nice and we spent a very pleasant evening there, before returning to our van for coffee and bed.

 

Sunday 16th

Bob and Barb were up with the lark as they had to get back to their home near Worthing. We were still in bed when they knocked the door to say goodbye. We took things a little more “Sunday morning easy” style, but were still home with plenty of time to tidy up and enjoy some time at home too. Another lovely weekend with our mates. And next – our 2 week holiday in the Lakes – just 4 sleeps before we were off! Can’t wait!

Bill and Ted - not phased by the rough passage

 


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Forest of Dean/Wye Valley – May 23-27th

Thursday 23
We had a very pleasant and trouble-free journey to the site, arriving about 13:50. Our allotted pitch on this small, charming and peaceful site was right next to the forest. It was very sunny and all we could hear was birdsong. The site was called Hawthorne Cottage and is just our kind of site. Mainly that means quiet, with no clubhouse!

On the A34

We did all the chores associated with setting up, staked the boys out on the grass to play, got the kettle on and relaxed. We already felt very much at home here and knew we could reckon on a quiet night too. The guy who showed us our pitch told us that we would fall asleep to the sound of the owl hooting. Bliss.

As we had arrived quite early, we decided to pop and explore one of the sights on our to-do list – Lydney Harbour. The Lydney Canal passes out into the vast River Severn at this point. It was built in the early 1800s to transport iron and coal from the Forest of Dean mines/works onto larger boats bound for Avonmouth.

We had a lovely walk round and marvelled at the thick, gloopy mud that was there in abundance. You could see across to the old Berkeley nuclear power station. It was de-commissioned in 1989 but is not actually scheduled to be fully cleared of nuclear waste until 2070 or thereabouts. You could also see the exit of the Gloucester & Sharpness canal into the Severn. We had boated to the terminus there and also cycled there and it was good to see it from another angle.

Glorious Mud!

Leaky Gate

The G&S Canal Terminus

 Power Station 

The Lydney Canal

Paul & Ted

Berkeley Nuclear Power Station

I popped into a shop to pick up a couple of bits after we had visited the Harbour and, while he waited, Paul was tasked with finding a riverside pub for a drink before we returned home. He hadn’t been able to find the exact postcode and had selected a nearby one. Big mistake! He did not reveal this fact until we rocked up at the location of the postcode to find – no pub. Nowhere to be found!

We had passed through Clearwell on the way. We had visited there before when an old friend got married at the beautiful Castle. But back to the pub – the actual postcode of the pub was in Wales and on our Satnav the transition between the two countries is not as seamless as it should be. You actually have to change country and once we’d done that, the postcode could be found and off we set. It transpired that the pub Paul had selected was on the Wales side of the river and so we had to go up river until there was a crossing (near Monmouth) and then all the way back. Later research showed that we should have parked roughly where the original postcode had taken us and gone on foot across the bridge. Lesson learnt!

The pub was called The Boat Inn in a village called Penallt (opposite Redbrook on the English side of the river). We had originally planned just a quick drink before going back to the van to cook dinner, but the faffing outlined above meant that it was rather later than anticipated and so we decided to eat there. We both chose “Pan Haggerty ” – a delicious potato, onion and cheese concoction. Paul also had a pint of Butty Bach – a Wye Valley Brewery beer, which he pronounced to be rather fine. We drove home and I tidied up and got ready for bed whilst Paul took the boys for their last walk/pee opportunity. An early night all round.

The Footbridge from Redbrook

The Boat Inn, Penallt

Friday 24th May
We had planned a bike ride today from Cannop Cycle Centre. There is a lovely 9 mile circular ride, with a really good surface and all very clearly way-marked. You pass a couple of the disused Forest of Dean coal mines and we absolutely loved doing it.  They advise you to go clockwise but – as we had e-bikes – we decided we’d be able to tackle anything they could throw at us and went anticlockwise. There is one steep (to me!) but short climb section which was hard work but otherwise it was AOK. The boys loved being off lead and running alongside the bikes – a skill they need to learn for canal towpaths, which they’ll hopefully see a lot of in their lives. They weren’t quite so keen being in their backpacks, but they’ll get used to them. It was such a beautiful ride and I would recommend it to anyone – especially those with kids. You can hire bikes too, including a some rather gnarly e-Mountain bikes! These, and baby/dog carriages/tandems etc. are all available from Pedal A Bike  Away. You can even hire an off-road electric wheelchair/mobility vehicle (called a Tramper) from Walking with Wheels. They work closely with the Gloucestershire Wheels for All Project It’s very inclusive, and rightly so. A link to a map of our ride appears here.

Paul and a pair of pups!

Foxes Bridge Colliery

Refreshed after a flapjack

Thirsty Boys

All too soon, we arrived back at the Cycle shop having completed the circumnavigation. There is a very nice cafe at the shop and we treated ourselves to a coffee and a yummy flapjack. Rather enterprisingly, they also sell individual Bonios, so the boys had a treat as well. Happiness all round.

As you can see from the map, there is short stretch to Mallards Pike Lake, which we had not bothered with on our ride. We decided to visit it by car before lunch. It was lovely and I haven’t seen so many tadpoles in years! They have a section of the lake called a “doggy dip” and the boys enjoyed playing with a lab, in and out of the water, fetching sticks – or not…… It was a lovely stroll round the lake and we liked the look of the very smart new cafe, but lunch was waiting for us back at the van so we noted it for, perhaps, (hopefully?) another visit.

The new cafe – sensitively designed

So many tadpoles! All round the lake edge.

We had lunch (quite a late one) and it seemed we were all tired from our morning’s exertions so we all had a little beepy. We woke up refreshed and fancied an ice-cream. Looking online, we found just the thing in Monmouth – an Italian gelateria! We didn’t hesitate and set off for Monmouth, with our mouths watering. Monmouth is a lovely little town with lots of interesting-looking shops. But our minds were on just one thing! We located the gelateria, which was sited on Agincourt Square (after Henry V who was born in Monmouth) and Paul parked, while I went to get the treats. And boy – what a treat! We had a very naughty three scoops! Yummy. I urge you to visit Green & Jenks if ever in Monmouth and fancy an ice-cream. You won’t be disappointed. In fact they are so good they featured in June’s Country Living magazine – as did an article on visiting the Wye Valley.

It was rush hour in Monmouth so not the best time to visit. We did manage to get a snap of the famous and ancient Monnow Bridge (named after the River on which Monmouth stands – just before it empties into the Wye).

Monnow Bridge – Monmouth

After we had queued to get out of Monmouth we returned to the van, where we sat out in the early evening sun, while the boys played and squabbled. I love this area and will inevitably return to Monmouth to explore it further. It warrants it.

Saturday 25th
The boys were real early birds this morning so our day started a tad earlier than we might have wished but we had a plan, so cracked on with the day. We planned to ride the Dean Forest steam railway the short trip from Norchard to Parkend, passing through Whitecroft station. The boys are quite happy on steam trains, as you may recall, and we always love to support the preservation by taking a ride. It was a very pleasant – if short – trip through the Forest and we were glad we had done it. Parkend is the current terminus – although there are plans to extend further.  There were some interesting industrial remains – possibly mines – or even iron works, both of which were prominent in the Forest. This article about the Forest of Dean Coal field is an interesting read.

As the journey was quite short, we were done and dusted by mid-morning and decided that our next port of call would be Tintern Abbey. But as we were returning to the car we spotted this rather attractive outfall – the signage tells that the “Norchard Drain” is an outfall from old colliery workings The outfall enters the River Lyd at a rate of 20,000 litres per minute, winter and summer. The red colour is caused by iron oxide as the water leaches through layers of ironstone.

We pressed on to Tintern, which is located in a beautiful location, right on the Wye. It is the best-preserved medieval abbey in Wales and rather beimpressive. It is administered by CADW, an organisation which safeguards Wales’ heritage. It means “keep/protect”, by the way. Tintern is dog friendly, so we paid our entry fee and explored the site. There was something very peaceful about it. That may seem fanciful, but you’d see what I mean if you visited.

By now, lunch was calling. LOUDLY! We decided not to hang around Tintern as – being a Bank Holiday weekend – tourists were thronging. A quick search on Trip Advisor revealed somewhere called “Toast” in Tutshill that sounded rather good. It was a pleasant drive, but when we arrived in Tutshill we could not find anywhere to park for Toast. We eventually did but – as we walked in – they told us that the kitchen had just that minute closed. It was 13.47 and the kitchen closed at 13.45. Very disappointing indeed. We won’t be back, which is a shame as it looks great.

As we were so close to Chepstow by now, we decided to try and eat there, as there would definitely be more opportunities. We happened upon the Riverside Wine Bar – located right on the river. Perfect. And so was the food. We ordered a selection of Tapas and each one was delicious. A special mention for the Brown Sugar Glazed steak which was lush!

Chepstow Castle

On the way back home, we stopped off at Tidenham Chase (which gives access to Offa’s Dyke and the Devil’s Pulpit) to give the boys a run and then continued our journey through St Briavels, which had spectacular views over the Wye Valley and then called in at Lydney to get some ice-cream for our dessert. 

Bill on an OS Trig Point

View – St Briavels

Finally,  it was home and another quiet evening – with a broken TV, which I forgot to mention earlier. Annoying! We played Doble to pass the time. Although we had had an early start, had packed a lot in and so were yawning and ready for bed -almost before it was dark!

Sunday 26th

Our destination today – after a nice eggy breakfast – was Symonds Yat Rock. It had been quite a while since we had visited (with our friends Sue & Paul Rogers) and we found it to be quite changed or, at least, it wasn’t quite how we had remembered it. 

It’s a very popular beauty spot with a stunning viewpoint over the Wye. It’s renowned for its Peregine Falcons and they have RSPB volunteers to answer any questions you might have. There was a long list of all the birds that had been spotted there – including Goshawks and Buzzards. It really is a special place. 

We made a traditional visit to Symonds Yat East, down at river level for a drink. Last time we were here it was raining. This time there was a spot of drizzle but otherwise fine. It was heaving so we didn’t stay too long. We popped back to the van for lunch and then decide we would go back to Cannop to cycle the trail again, but this time take the path down to Mallards Pike Lake. It was a lovely ride and we rewarded ourselves at the half way point by having a slice of cake and a cuppa at the very smart cafe. There is a Go Ape here as well and we later found out that my cousin Alice was “going ape” there around the same time that we were there. What a coincidence! The boys were, by now, getting used to their backpacks and were, in fact, quite eager to get in! They were clearly tired.


We cycled the return leg and arrived back at the car park. The trail is such a great resource and very popular with families. We could do with something like it nearer home. We’d be out every weekend!

Back to the van for dinner and to start the packing up process ready for the off in the morning. It had all gone too quickly. Not enough time visit all that the area has to offer – such as Puzzlewood, Goodrich Castle, Clearwell Caves, and so on. It looks like we will be back.

Monday  27th

We were up and at it, packed up and home after another stress-free journey, by around 13:30. Our next trip is in June when we are off down to Dorset with our pals Bob and Barb. We loved our time at Hawthorne Cottage and do plan to make a return visit. In the pic below, we are the blue dot.